L'officiel 1000 modeless - - New York - — By Ka­ren Rouach, in New York, and Ma­thilde Ber­thier

Bet­ween in­evi­table sports­wear in­fluences and ha­bi­tual references to the past, New York fashion week cer­tain­ly didn’t sur­prise anyone, but it did de­li­ver fi­ni­shed and rea­lis­tic col­lec­tions. A fes­tive vin­tage, mar­ked by an­ni­ver­sa­ry fashion shows and long din­ners in the Meat­pa­cking dis­trict, where the fu­ture of Ame­ri­can fashion see­med to play out.

What bet­ter way to start the week than a Gi­ven­chy show? Ric­car­do Tis­ci, ar­tis­tic di­rec­tor, chose to have his show in New York this sea­son, on Sep­tem­ber 11th. The choice was not out of snob­bism, but out of a pure love for the ci­ty; sym­bol of the Ame­ri­can dream for him as much as it was for Hubert de Gi­ven­chy. Al­so an oc­ca­sion to celebrate his ten years as ar­tis­tic di­rec­tor for the la­bel, and the ope­ning of a new bou­tique on Ma­di­son Ave­nue. More than a fashion show; the pu­blic; com­po­sed of ce­le­bri­ties; fashion professionals; fashion stu­dents and simple re­si­dents of the area (who re­gis­te­red on­line through a lis­ting ope­ned by New York ci­ty hall); were in­vi­ted to a ve­ri­table spec­tacle de­di­ca­ted to love and sha­ring. In a dé­cor com­po­sed of re­cy­cled ma­te­rials, ins­tal­led on the Hud­son in Tri­be­ca, Ma­ri­na Abra­mo­vić

(a friend of the fashion house) be­gan the fes­ti­vi­ties with a live per­for­mance, sur­roun­ded by ar­tists. As for the col­lec­tion, com­po­sed of rein­ter­pre­ta­tions of iconic Ric­car­do Tis­ci pieces; it feels ve­ry much like an an­ni­ver­sa­ry line. Black and white, mas­cu­line and fe­mi­nine, strong and fra­gile; in this war­drobe, eve­ry­thing contrasts, while remaining co­herent. A spe­cial men­tion to the su­perb masks, which ad­ded a dash more thea­tri­ca­li­ty to this me­mo­rable show. Alexan­der Wang had a rea­son to celebrate as well: his epo­ny­mous la­bel’s ten year an­ni­ver­sa­ry. The oc­ca­sion cal­led for a re­turn to street wear roots: sweats, hoo­ded sweat­shirts ins­cri­bed with “Do so­me­thing”, over­size t-shirts, snea­kers, lace-up de­tai­ling, and ci­ty pa­ja­mas made up this spe­cial col­lec­tion. Fol­lo­wed by a li­ve­ly film that tra­ced his ca­reer from the be­gin­ning. Ano­ther an­ni­ver­sa­ry, Her­vé Lé­ger ce­le­bra­ted his la­bel’s thir­tieth bir­th­day with a col­lec­tion com­pri­sed of thir­ty mo­dels for spring­sum­mer 2016, and ano­ther thir­ty mo­dels de­di­ca­ted to a re­tros­pec­tive of his work. On the pro­gram, the mythic bo­dy-hug­ging band aid dress that made him fa­mous: but not on­ly; loo­ser de­si­gns, em­broi­de­red with pearls, studs, and je­wels; al­so make their sta­te­ment on the catwalk. None other than Fe­lipe Oli­vei­ra Bap­tis­ta, ar­tis­tic di­rec­tor for La­coste, was cho­sen to de­si­gn the uni­forms for France in the next Olym­pic Games in Rio, 2017. The sil­houettes on the New York catwalk give a fo­re­taste of what the ath­letes will be wea­ring. Com­fort and uti­li­ty are fea­tu­red, while the brand’s iconic cro­co­dile po­lo-dress is em­bla­zo­ned with re­sty­led flags. Ralph Lauren is in­ter­es­ted in yach­ting this sea­son; as his col­lec­tion, full of li­te­ral and abs­tract references to this tren­dy hob­by, at­tests. Ska­ter-skirts, wide-leg­ged pants, sai­lor’s swea­ters, and of­fi­cer’s vests com­pose this art­ful war­drobe, ideal for han­ging around the yacht club. A wa­ter theme serves as the key th­read connec­ting all of the en­sembles in the Vic­to­ria Beck­ham show. Sur­fer sil­houettes blos­som in­to dresses, t-shirts, and ja­ckets; ne­ck­lines take on un­du­la­ting forms re­mi­nis­cent of the mo­ve­ment of waves; while ocean-blue ap­pears in stripes and par­si­mo­nious touches. The long, im­ma­cu­late dresses, di­vi­ded-skirts in bright orange, and play with asym­me­tri­cal cuts, dic­tate a play­ful and eva­nes­cent war­drobe. The Mi­chael Kors wo­man has ne­ver loo­ked so na­tu­ral. For sum­mer, she bets on op­po­sing genres, as­so­cia­ting ro­man­tic pieces with street wear, while dis­co­ve­ring a cer­tain taste for bo­he­mian style along the way. While, at Proen­za Schou­ler, the or­di­na­ri­ly more tech­ni­cal Jack McCol­lough and La­za­ro Her­nan­dez, pre­fer­red to use more tra­di­tio­nal tech­niques to ela­bo­rate their sum­mer col­lec­tion. Re­sul­ting, lo­gi­cal­ly, in com­for­table, ne­ver pre­ten­tious, and fi­nal­ly, more at­trac­tive pieces. At Boss, Ja­son Wu al­so sof­tens his ha­bi­tual­ly har­der sil­houettes. Pro­ven by dra­ped and plea­ted fluid dresses, long coats, fringe and layers, that ins­tant­ly in­ject a dose of re­laxa­tion. In flares and an ai­ry maxi-dress com­bi­na­tion, the Diane von Furs­ten­berg wo­man seems to have step­ped right out of the ‘70s. This mo­dern-day di­vi­ni­ty preaches a yé-yé and hip­pie-chic style, ai­ded by ec­cen­tric co­lors mixed with eth­nic and bu­co­lic prints. Je­re­my Scott plunges us in­to post-war Hol­ly­wood, in­to the mo­ment when the first B-mo­vies pre­mie­red and kitsch was born. The de­si­gner ap­pro­priates mythic cuts and sil­houettes from the six­ties, and blends it with pop prints; like smi­lies and te­le­vi­sion screens. One of a kind. Al­though the col­lec­tion as a whole de­mons­trates an ob­vious sense of hu­mor, it re­mains no­ne­the­less a wea­rable war­drobe. Marc Ja­cobs played on nos­tal­gia, in­vi­ting eve­ryone to Zieg­feld Theatre, in ho­mage to Broad­way’s gol­den age. The cur­tain fell on references to the Vic­to­rian era, the roa­ring twen­ties, the fif­ties and the beat ge­ne­ra­tion, the dis­co mo­ve­ment, and the 1990s; all wea­ved to­ge­ther. At Cal­vin Klein, Fran­cis­co Cos­ta see­med to un­dress ra­ther than to dress his mo­dels. But it couldn’t be more now. The silk dresses in ten­der tones will cer­tain­ly be all the rage next sum­mer: for day and night, at home as well as out in the ci­ty. On the To­ry Burch run­way, sil­houettes play with contrasts, crea­ting a ba­lance bet­ween sports­wear in­fluences and bo­he­mian spi­rit, the whole in a pa­lette that pays ho­mage to na­ture with prints in the same vein. The Ame­ri­can de­si­gner uses the oc­ca­sion to show her si­gna­ture tu­nic in dif­ferent ver­sions that will doubt­less­ly end up in the war­drobes of her loyal clien­tele. Ty­pi­cal­ly New Yor­ker, the Coach col­lec­tion speaks of free­dom and takes ins­pi­ra­tion from Ame­ri­can coun­ter-cul­ture. Part sur­fer, part cow­girl-punk; the wo­man ima­gi­ned by Stuart Ver­vers loves classic pieces as much as pas­sing fan­cies. As night falls… Ri­han­na laun­ched hos­ti­li­ties with her pri­vate din­ner at Lon­don Edi­tion. Ro­ger Vi­vier ce­le­bra­ted his new muse, Jeanne Da­mas. Gi­ven­chy ce­le­bra­ted their fashion show in a par­king lot full of cars (and de­si­gners). Diane von Furs­ten­berg in­vi­ted the en­tire front-row to her own stu­dio in the Meat­pa­cking dis­trict. Alexan­der Wang hi­red ten pole dan­cers to ani­mate his wild af­ter-show party. Mi­chael Kors laun­ched his new fra­grance line at the Stan­dard Ho­tel with Har­ley Vie­ra-New­ton at the turn­tables.



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