L'officiel 1000 modeless - - News - Par/by Ma­thilde Ber­thier

Cu­rio­si­ty killed the cat… but bet­ween win­ter and spring, jour­na­lists and buyers are hap­py to give into the ins­tinct. It’s en­ough to peek into the pre-fall 2017 collections to un­ders­tand what will shake up the run­ways in Fe­brua­ry, and a year from now, hit the si­de­walks. Bo­red by bru­ta­lism, de­si­gners (once again) reach for the 1970s gol­den era. The at­mos­phere evokes a smo­ky li­ving room, where we scratch a few Bob Dy­lan chords in a folk gown, hid­den be­hind rhi­nes­to­ned bi­fo­cals. Va­len­ti­no tries his hand at hip­pie art de­co, Guc­ci reads the cards like it’s ni­ne­teen six­ty-eight, and Coach tries for an­ti-glo­ba­list hips­ter. In Lon­don, Ch­ris­to­pher Kane pro­poses his vi­sion of flo­wer po­wer: can­did, di­verse, and art­sy. The young guard doesn’t stay on the si­de­lines: crea­ti­ve­ly coun­te­ring the fa­shion flow: Kim El­le­ry’s vo­lumes speak vo­lumes; Off-White’s Vir­gil Abloh os­cil­lates bet­ween cultish Vic­to­rian and space age street. Un­ques­tio­ned tra­di­tion by ma­ny, the pre-fall col­lec­tion is a slow fa­shion par­ti­san’s big pet peeve. Cer­tain big names are mis­sing from this fall an­tho­lo­gy’s roll call. De­si­gners stan­ding up to the sys­tem re­minds us that pre-collections are the in­ter­na­tio­nal buyers’ stock and trade, an ef­fec­tive means of thwar­ting mass-mar­ket giants… At the edge of an over­dose, fa­shion eco­no­mizes its pro­duc­ti­vi­ty: will it come out a win­ner?

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