Le Grand Véfour.

Where once Bonaparte plotted with Joséphine, where Colette and Cocteau held literary court; two centuries later it is where Guy Martin revolutionises traditional cuisine into mod two Mich-starred marvels. 17 rue du Beaujolais, 1st / M: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre / 42 96 56 27 / closed Sun-Mon / grand-vefour.com