UNDER GIRLS’ JACKETS

After ten years away from the runway, Laetitia Casta does her big comeback for Simon Porte Jacquemus. In a beige palette: crop-top knit, pencil skirt, high socks, sandals and coordinated bag. Even though the palette is mostly monochrome (beige) and the fabrics look mostly hand-made (woven linen), the show isn’t monotonous at all. A child of the sun, Jacquemus breathes sexiness and lightness into his clothing. Underwear creeps into daywear, jackets open onto sports bras, the dresses include push-up busts, breasts are sublimated by micro-knits, and ankles are fetishized with skinny straps.