# Chi­ckenFun

Technikart - SuperCannes - - Édito - Brought to you by Grand Sei­gneur RAN­DALL PRICE WITH NI­CO­LAS CHERATI

Rouget Barbet is the ce­le­bri­ty of the lo­cal Cannes fishes. The fillets are small and pret­ty, with a won­der­ful­ly spe­cial taste. In En­glish they are cal­led ‘Red Mul­let,’ which sounds much less so­phis­ti­ca­ted, doesn’t it?

When Bal­thus and I were in Ohio, I don’t re­mem­ber this fish. De­pra­vi­ty! If you are lu­cky enough to find it, I think the most ex­cellent way of pre­pa­ring it is sim­ply. Beg your fish­mon­ger to fi­let and scale it, to avoid the nui­sance and the sho­wer of se­quin-like scales. Then just get your grill or frying pan nice and hot, add a splash of olive oil and cook it skin-side down on high heat. Don’t bo­ther to cook the other side. The fillets are so small and thin they will cook wi­thout tur­ning them over. The key is to get the skin side per­fect­ly cris­py.

There are plen­ty of fan­cy re­cipes for Rouget Barbet. I pre­fer not to tam­per with it too much, but Bal­thus likes it as I sug­gest be­low, with some nice Pro­ven­çal black olive Ta­pe­nade.

Be sure to look for The New Ad­ven­tures of Chef & Chat in Grand Sei­gneur ma­ga­zine, from Tech­ni­kart. It’s an ex­tra­or­di­na­ry ma­ga­zine rich in ar­ticles about the food scene. Bal­thus and I will pro­vide a small ad­ven­ture in each is­sue, with a real­ly good re­cipe. In the next Grand Sei­gneur, we fight Evil Chi­ckens (with teeth) and make a sal­mon souf­flé.

Count at least th­ree small Rouget Barbet fillets for each per­son.

Turn the fillets skin-side down and spread a spoon­ful of Ta­pe­nade on the fle­shy side. Heat a hea­vy grill pan or skillet to high. Brush oil on the sur­face so the fish skin won’t stick, and cook, skin side down, un­til you see the flesh tur­ning from white to opaque. De­pen­ding on size and thi­ck­ness, this will take two or th­ree mi­nutes. Keep them slight­ly un­der­coo­ked. Turn them on­to a ser­ving plate, cris­py de­li­cious skin-side up. Bal­thus likes to tri­ckle a lit­tle Bal­sa­mic vi­ne­gar or ba­sil Pes­to sauce over them, but the Ta­pe­nade alone makes for tas­ty ea­ting.

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