Valtellina
THE NEBBIOLO OF THE ALPS
Surrounded by the Alps, there is a magic, emergent wine region: Valtellina. Situated in the Rhaetian Alps (60 Kilometers northeast of Milan) at the Switzerland’s borders it is one of the Italian richest region in biodiversity. It’s mainly peculiarity is the presence of a special variety of Nebbiolo, here called as Chiavennasca, which shows different fragrances and aromas compared to the more well known grape we found in Langhe zone. Why? Surely because of its different DNA and, moreover, the unique temperature range that influences the ripening of the grapes which here grow at an altitude of 250 to 800 meters.
Surprisingly Valtellina have more than 500 years of history, indeed the first document confirming a wine activity is dated back to 1797. At that period the German navigator Heinrich Lehmann in its ”Die Laudschaft Veltlin” claimed that the grapes had been brought by the Chiavenna Valley. That explains the etymology of Valtellina name. Other source argues the origins of the name is from the dialect term ”ciu venasca” meaning a vigorous grape variety with nice sap or ”ciu vinasca”, described as one of the most suitable grapes able to produce great wines. At any rate, all agree to the fact this kind of Nebbiolo has an unbelievable aging skill. The scenario in those valleys where nowadays the wine cultivating began again anew thanks some new wines projects, shows an awesome presence of terraces likewise we can see in Alto Adige or Cinque Terre. In the 1500 century, ended the period in which all the plots have been managed by the clergy, the surface boost hugely overing 6000 hectares. Today we count 900 hectare of which 1800 terraced (2,000 hectares of Chiavennasca), beside there are also apples cultivation from the 1950s onwards. The mechanized harvesting is possibile not everywhere indeed, the high labour costs are caused by the manual and heavy work on the steep hills demanding 1400 man hours per hectares each years. As a consequences the all Valtellina players have studied the best way to reduce the costs starting from the choice to select some clones (three out of 100) to use in the production of the Valtellina Superiore (Docg from 1998) and the Sforzato di Valtellina (Docg in 2003). Those denominations cover 5 areas with the best sun exposures approved by the disciplinary like Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno e Valgella. Speaking about the ”taste of the terroir” likewise we use to do in Burgundy - we may say the wines from Sassella and Inferno have generally more fruit and structure because of the different sun exposures. Beside them the area of Grumello brings the name from it castle builded in 1373 by De Piro family from Sondrio. Here, the less stones on the surface cause a different light reflection and less heat. The wines have usually notes of currant and strawberry matched with nuts and minerality. The body is very soft and pleasantly tannic.
Our shopping list includes the wines of Ar.pe.pe, Mamete Prevostini, Nino Negri, Dirupi and Sandro Fay.