DOMAINE LA BÉGUDE

One of the most famous Bandol’s wineries

or many centuries, la Bégude was a stopover on the way that led from Marseille to toulon, a shelter for the night where travellers and pilgrims could find food and “beguda”, the drink in Provencal.

Located on the highest point of the Bandol appellation, at an altitude of 410 meters, more than 300 hectares of land lie in the shade of the mountain Sainte Baume, of which 30 hectares of vines divided into 55 plots. One of them, overlooking the sea, shelters a conservatory to the glory of Mourvèdre: the largest reservoir in the world of this grape, which brings together more than 150 clones.

Domaine de La Bégude is a unique model of biodiversity in which flora and fauna thrive together, and where the vine finds its balance. Bathed in sea breeze, the wines are aged in the 7th century chapel, a vestige of the Abbey of Saint Victor.

The Roulleau family, fifth family to own the wine estate since the Middle Ages, acquired Domaine de La Bégude in September 2022. Laurent Fortin, newly appointed Managing Director, takes the greatest care of the estate and its vineyard so that each of its vintages reflects the splendid beauty of this land and tells you its story.

Bandol AOC

(Organic) The nose is fresh, racy and offers a certain deepness, purity as well as a nice and discreetly tight grain. The wine needs by being decanted. It reveals notes of fresh quince, fresh white plum and small notes of crunchy white berries associated with fine hints of white flowers, discreet hints of spices as well as a discreet hint of thyme and almond. fresh. The palate is fruity and offers minerality, freshness, delicacy in its fat / in its matter, a discreet aerial side, a discreetly tight grain, a fine acidulous frame as well as a nice work on the bitterness. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of bright/ juicy quince, bright/juicy white nectarine and small notes of lemon associated with fine hints of zest, white flowers as well as a subtle hint of apricot blossom, fresh almond and sage. A very discreet almost liquorice hint in the background/on the finish.

Score 16/20 (92/100)

Bandol AOC

(Organic) The nose is elegant and offers a nice expression/ deepness in its fruit, purity as well as a sensation of roundness/a coating side. It reveals notes of bright cherry, fleshy/juicy strawberry and small notes of bright vine peach associated with fine touches of bright apple as well as delicate hints of quenette, lily, a subtle hint of apricot flowers and an imperceptible hint of pepper. The palate is fruity and offers juiciness, an acidulous frame, a good definition, a certain gourmandize, precision as well as control. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of pulpy/acidulous raspberry, acidulous/pulpy redcurrants and small notes of crunchy apple associated with touches of crunchy small white fruits, quenette, a subtle hint of olive, zest as well as with a very discreet hint of liquorice and fresh thyme.

Score 16+/20 (92-93/100)

Bandol AOC

(Organic) The nose is elegant, racy and offers elegant concentration, controlled power and a discreetly tight grain. It reveals notes of pulpy/juicy red cherry, bright red plum and slight notes of raspberry jelly associated with small touches of liquorice, olive tree, flowers, peppermint and spices. The palate is fruity and offers juiciness, a beautiful acidulous structure, minerality, a good definition, a beautiful grain, a fine powdery/velvety side, harmony, complexity, a nice freshness as well as a beautiful energy. A delicate and silky side despite a nice power. On the palate this wine expresses notes of pulpy/ juicy raspberry, fresh/bright cherry and small notes of violet associated with touches of violet plum, lilac, fresh thyme, discreet hints of bright red berries, liquorice as well as a subtle hint of black olive, tonka bean and toast. Tannins are precise, elegant, fine, supple and racy. Good length. A beautiful wine on the fruit and with a lot of purity (without however lacking in complexity and power).

Score 16.5+/20 (93-94/100)

Italy has more than 2000 indigenous grapes, of which around 300 are in commercial production. They create an enormous richness and diversity of the country’s viticulture. This phenomenon is closely connected to the history of the country that for the most part of the 20th century was impoverished, and peasants simply could not afford replanting modern, fashionable varieties as it happened in France. Most experts agree that old vines do not necessarily give better wine but the fact that they reached this age means that they were considered giving the yield of high quality and thus were preserved and cherished. Today, when the climate is changing, old vines have the benefit to adapt better to drought and unpredictable weather patterns. During the masterclass the participants had the chance to taste 12 wines from all over Italy. Some of them were surprising.

Emilia Romagna

100% Fortana. The shows a creamy, consistent mousse. On the nose the notes of apricots, peaches and pears interlace with delicate floral nuances. The palate reveals fresh, racy acidity balanced by the creamy texture. The wine opens up with notes of jasmine, chalky minerality, pleasant saltiness and a subtle touch of bitter almond on the finish.

Score : 15.25/20 (90/100)

Veneto

94% Glera, 2% Verdiso, 2% Bianchetta, 2% Perera taken from single vines between 80 and 100 years old. The wine offers the typical notes of Glera, nuances of pear

blossom, fresh white pears and yellow apples, delicate hints of white flowers. The palate is light and aerial with refreshing, soft acidity, pleasant salinity, complicated by nuances of pear drops and citrus zest.

Score : 15.25/20 (90/100)

Campania

35-year-old Fiano vines of a local biotype, discovered by Professor Luigi Moio and recuperated by him. The nose is ripe and dense, offering intense nuances of yellow apples, white peaches and meadow flowers, combined with a distinct mineral, smoky note. The palate is round and powerful with round and textured body, elevated acidity, pronounced salinity and phenolic grip. The wine that perfectly reflects its origin.

Score : 16.25+/20 (93/100)

Friuli

(Organic) 100% Friulan from a historic plot of 3,09ha, planted in 1943. The nose is initially very herbal, revealing notes of green tea, sencha, dried herbs and hay, later opening up with delicate nuances of apricots and pineapples. The palate is savoury and saline, offering moderate acidity and grippy texture.

Score : 15.5+/20 (91/100)

Veneto

Garganega 100%, 100-year-old vines. The nose reveals generous notes of yellow apples, white peaches, a touch of pineapple in the echo. The palate is full-bodied and textural with refreshing acidity, notes of flower honey notes, hints of ripe yellow pears and peaches, a solid mineral backbone. Slight bitterness on the lingering finish.

Score : 16/20 (92/100)

Campania

Roviello Bianco (Grecomusc) 100%. The nose is smoky, offering notes of gunflint, silex, roasted seeds and sesame. On the palate herbal notes interlace with nuances of spices and nuts. The wine reveals a piercing, crisp acidity, moderate weight and grippy texture. The finish is nutty and slightly bitter.

Score : 14.5+/20 (88/100)

Piemonte

Barbera 100%, 50-year-old vines. The nose is vivid and vibrant, revealing juicy notes of ripe red and black cherries, a hint of spices, like black pepper and a touch of raspberry compote. The palate shows the typical for Barbera, crunchy and succulent acidity balancing the high alcohol, a lot of gourmandise, moderate weight, long juicy finish.

Score : 16/20 (92/100)

Assyrtiko is the most famous white grape of Greece, an indigenous variety of Santorini, and the signature of the island, producing both dry and sweet wines. It accounts for around 70% of the total 1.100 hectares of plantings. It amounts to approximately 800 ha, from a total of 1.900 ha of Assyrtiko plantings throughout the country. Assyrtiko demonstrates a magnificent combination of vibrant acidity (ph can be as low as 2.80 and TA as high as 7.5 g/l) and high alcohol (up to 15.5% abv), combined with pronounced mineral character and salinity. As Yiannis Karakasis MW says, it has “a distinctive taste of rocks and salt”. Tight and firm in its youth, it shows solid ageing potential. 5-8 years seem a safe drinking window for these wines but with the improvement of viticultural and winemaking techniques, Assyrtiko from Santorini can show even more impressive results.

The most exciting thing is that nobody knows how old some vineyards in Santorini are. They might be well around 200 years old or even older as they are cultivated using a unique training system called ‘kouloura’ (basket) to protect the vines from the violent winds that blow on the island, which can exceed 80 km/h at times. This training system also creates a more humid environment, which helps to ease the hydric stress. The yields are incredibly low, around 10hl/ha, which makes these wines precious and expensive.

Crete

The nose is very herbal, offering nuances of hay, garrigue, a touch of sweet spices, complicated by notes of fresh yellow pears and apples. The palate is creamy and smooth, with moderate acidity, medium weight, some spicy oakiness, nice freshness, fruity and vibrant. Long, succulent finish.

Score : 14.5+/20 (88/100)

Tinos, Cyclades PGI

This Assyrtiko comes from the granitic soils of Tinos island. The nose reveals juicy nuances of ripe lemons, underpinned by notes of lemon zest and grapefruit pith, a touch of unripe pineapple in the background. The palate is intensely saline and linear, very structured and vertical, with a powerful phenolic grip and zesty acidity. Salty and mineral finish with a citrus note in the echo.

Score : 16/20 (92/100)

Santorini

The nose is powerful and intense, revealing juicy nuances of ripe lemons and pomelos, a touch of flowers (geranium), a delicate hint of kerosene. On the palate the texture is waxy, sticks to the gums, refreshed by piercing acidity which also balances the high alcohol. The notes of yellow apples and pears intertwine with nuances of almonds and grapefruits. A pleasant bitter note lingers in the aftertaste. Massive!

Score : 17/20 (94/100)

I Vigneri, the name of an ancient guild of Sicilian winegrowers, Maestranza dei Vigneri, was created in 1435 in Catania, which implemented precise specifications for the cultivation of grapes and winemaking on Etna. More than 500 years later, Salvo Foti revived this association, naming his winery I Vigneri and giving it the symbol of a goblet-shaped vine. All the vineyards of Salvo are planted following the traditional ”arberello” method, which consists of leaning the vines against a chestnut pole and positioning them in quincunx.

The vineyards are located in Milo, in the eastern part of Etna, at an altitude of 800m. The soil is of volcanic origin and is rich, thus leading to high densities of 8,000 to 12,000 vines per hectare to limit the vigour of the vine. Salvo Foti does not use any synthetic products. The grapes are harvested by hand between the end of September and the middle of October. The winemaking process is equally natural, are carried out using indigenous yeasts.

Vinupetra is a local word meaning “wine produced in a soil full of stones”. The grapes are harvested from a 0,38ha plot in Contrada Porcaria (Feudo di Mezzo) in Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slope of Etna, 580 metres above sea level. This wine is produced from a blend of 70-80-year-old vines of Nerello Mascalese (80%), Nerello Cappuccio (10%), Grenache and Francisi (10%). The wine is aged for 12 months in 225L and 500L barrels. Only 3100 bottles are produced in an average year.