GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN

Tasting of communal wines of the 2021 vintage

HORIZONTAL TASTING

I write frankly. The 2021 vintage of Gevrey Chambertin does not have the style we have seen for decades; the wines are very light due to the climatic conditions. The vegetative cycle started during the warm weather at the end of March and the buds were already well out. Unfortunately, chilly nights with snow hit the vineyard at the beginning of April, and the spring and summer were cool and rainy. The good weather in August was enough to ripen the grapes, but the harvest was a little late, as in the 1990s, and most growers started picking in the second half of September.

It is true that the wines are light, and some lack substance and balance. However, one can find subtlety, delicacy, silkiness.. all the charm of Pinot Noir of the old times! We often talk about vintages ending in 9, such as 1999 or 2009, which are massive and have a long ageing potential. On the other hand, one should not forget the fresh vintages with a 1, like 91 or 01, which are vintages of Pinot Noir, of little waiting in the cellar and also of a winemaker; some express the character of this delicate vintage, and the others keep their style.

So choose wisely! here is a fine selection of our 5 favourite wines:

Gevrey Chambertin

This estate makes 2 cuvées in the village of Gevrey village. “Mes Cinques Terroirs” comes from parcels in the southern part, and ‘Ma cuvée’ is from the northern part. Arnaud Mortet has perfectly interpreted the character of this delicate vintage, while keeping his own dense style. It is true that its colour, its first nose and its attack are light and discreet compared to the wines of recent years. But its aroma of red berries is extremely subtle and refined. On the palate, this wine is reminiscent of ‘dashi’ (a basic broth in Japanese cuisine), i.e. it is not powerful but has the concentration of umami. Its texture is dense like tightly woven silk. Very pleasant finish.

Score : 18/20 (96/100)

Gevrey Chambertin

Based in Morey St Denis, this estate also makes excellent wines from Gevrey. The nose is still closed. Its attack is supple and light, but its texture is elegant and smooth. On the palate it is ephemeral and racy like 20th century Pinot Noir. On the finish, the fine tannins support this delicate wine. Balanced, the fruit and the tannins are already well-balanced. The aftertaste is persistent like silk thread. It is already ready to drink today. Score : 16+/20 (92-93/100)

Gevrey Chambertin

Its colour is not very intense, but its aromas of red and black fruits are well-pronounced. In spite of the light vintage, its attack is direct, juicy and gourmet with nuances of sour red berries like acerola and raspberry. It has tannins but is very fine and supple, this balanced wine is already in harmony. Slight bitterness on the finish. It is ready to drink. Remarkable. Score : 15.25/20 (90/100)

Gevrey Chambertin

Despite the light vintage, this estate keeps its concentrated style well. The nose is still very woody. But it reveals floral aromas, and intense cherry drupe. On the palate, it has substance, density, volume and roundness. Its texture is supple and smooth like very ripe red fruit liqueur. It seems to be a premier cru. But there is less character of a delicate vintage. Better to wait a few more years.

Score : 16/20 (92/100)

Mazoyères-chambertin

This estate has decided to separate this cuvée from Charme-chambertin from 2020 onwards in order to precise its terroir marked by more power. But this 2021 vintage is more about finesse than power. Its splendid nose is accompanied by sour red fruits such as wild strawberry and cherry, and also very floral like violet. On the palate, it is fresh and pure, nothing stops it from going down the throat. It can be drunk young, but the fine-grained tannins that appear in the back palate justify that this wine has good ageing potential.

Score : 17+/20 (95-96/100)