BROOK­LYN, BO­ROUGH WITH A VIEW

Brook­lyn et sa vue (le titre en VO est un clin d'oeil au ro­man de E.M. Fors­ter A Room with a View ; bo­rough ar­ron­dis­se­ment)

Vocable (Anglais) - - À La Une Destination -

De­puis une ving­taine d’an­nées, Brook­lyn a pris son es­sor. Tan­dis que des quar­tiers d’af­faires s’y sont dé­ve­lop­pés, d’autres quar­tiers sont de­ve­nus le re­paire de nom­breux ar­tistes et stars in­ter­na­tio­nales. On y trouve des hô­tels et res­tau­rants chics à tous les coins de rue. Brook­lyn est-il dé­sor­mais l’ar­ron­dis­se­ment le plus bran­ché de New York ?

Jake Gyl­len­haal is wal­king in­to my New York ho­tel. It's not on Fifth Ave­nue or one of the tren­dy cor­ners of Lo­wer Man­hat­tan. It's in Brook­lyn. And it – the 1 Ho­tel Brook­lyn Bridge – might be the buz­ziest new ho­tel in the ci­ty, star sigh­tings or no. Be­cause

1. tren­dy à la mode, bran­ché / cor­ner coin, en­droit / buz­zy ici, qui a le vent en poupe (buzz, bat­tage mé­dia­tique) / star sigh­ting ap­pa­ri­tion de stars / the 1 Ho­tel Brook­lyn Bridge, like the new William Vale Ho­tel and the William­sburg Ho­tel, both new to Brook­lyn's wa­ter­front, have so­me­thing that Man­hat­tan doesn't have: the sky­line pa­no­ra­ma. De­ve­lo­pers have new­ly awo­ken to the Wall-Street-to-Har­lem

wa­ter­front bord de l'eau / sky­line pers­pec­tive, ho­ri­zon (pro­fil des im­meubles se dé­cou­pant sur le ciel) / de­ve­lo­per ici, pro­mo­teur im­mo­bi­lier / to awake, awoke, awo­ken (to) prendre conscience (de) / vis­ta fra­med across the East Ri­ver and be­gun tou­ting it via roof­top bars, ho­tel rooms and im­pro­ved parks.

PRAISED BY AR­TISTS

2. From ear­ly fan Walt Whit­man to the contem­po­ra­ry Avett Bro­thers, cen­tu­ries of ar­tists have sung the praises of Brook­lyn, among the lar­gest ci­ties in the na­tion be­fore neigh­bo­ring New York swal­lo­wed it in 1898. It's

the epi­cen­ter of the coun­try's craft re­nais­sance, where crea­tive en­tre­pre­neurs and ar­ti­sa­nal food pro­du­cers thrive, gi­ving rise to hips­ter culture that has spread flan­nels and beards to the Na­sh­villes, Aus­tins and Oma­has of the na­tion.

3. But for a tra­ve­ler vi­si­ting New York, is Brook­lyn en­ough? Can you do the Big Apple wi­thout ta­king a bite of Man­hat­tan? The short ans­wer is no. Broad­way, and spe­ci­fi­cal­ly the teen-ang­st To­ny-win­ner Dear Evan Han­sen, was too com­pel­ling to keep me so­le­ly in the bo­rough. But the long ans­wer is most­ly. And here's why.

4. First, un­ders­tand that Brook­lyn, mea­su­ring 71 square miles of land, is spraw­ling and that not all of it is conve­nient. But if you stick to Brook­lyn Heights and down­town Brook­lyn, the clo­sest quar­ters to Man­hat­tan and ser­vi­ced fre­quent­ly by the 1 through 5 sub­way trains, you have ac­cess to both bo­roughs and chea­per rates on food and lod­ging (fa­shio­nable William­sburg is less ac­ces­sible, but Uber-friend­ly).

5. Staying in Brook­lyn, my son and I got off the 1 train from our Broad­way vi­sit (20 mi­nutes by train) to a ve­ry quiet down­town Brook­lyn at 11 p.m. on a Fri­day night. We dub­bed it the “ci­ty that sleeps,” and that's not such a bad thing when it comes to ho­tels, which are pro­li­fe­ra­ting here. We found great va­lue, com­pa­red with Man­hat­tan quar­ters, in both the re­cent­ly re­no­va­ted New York Mar­riott at the Brook­lyn Bridge and the 1 Ho­tel Brook­lyn Bridge. The lat­ter's views of the ico­nic bridge and the more dis­tant Sta­tue of Li­ber­ty war­rant room-ser­vice din­ner.

MEE­TING THE LOCALS

6. When it comes to ac­tual­ly mee­ting the locals, Brook­lyn, a be­droom com­mu­ni­ty for New York's bu­si­ness dis­tricts, is friend­liest. And a mi­ni-boom of en­tre­pre­neu­rial guide ser­vices has made fin­ding them ea­sier than ever. I joi­ned the Brook­lyn star­tup Lo­cal Ex­pe­di­tions on one of its locals-led neigh­bo­rhood iti­ne­ra­ries, a three-hour bike tour of DUMBO ($40), the his­to­ric area Down Un­der the Man­hat­tan Bridge Over­pass where via­ducts shel­ter week­ly flea mar­kets and his­to­ric wa­re­houses frame dis­tant skys­cra­pers in Ins­ta­gram-po­pu­lar images.

7. Iro­ni­cal­ly, I had to meet my guide on the Man­hat­tan side of the bridge. “I like to start over here be­cause the bi­king across the bridge is spec­ta­cu­lar, and there are al­ways

Ci­ti Bikes (a bi­cycle-sha­ring pro­gram) avai­lable on this side,” said Nan­cy Blaine, a for­mer text­book edi­tor, near­ly li­fe­long Brook­ly­nite and foun­der of Lo­cal Ex­pe­di­tions, as we pe­da­led over the sce­nic span.

8. Ba­sed on guides' in­ter­ests and ex­per­tise, Lo­cal Ex­pe­di­tions iti­ne­ra­ries ex­plore the mul­ti­fa­ce­ted bo­rough from Ja­ckie Ro­bin­son's Brook­lyn to the mu­rals of Bu­sh­wick, but they al­ways in­clude a snack stop. Ours was at the pe­tite Al­mon­dine Ba­ke­ry where Nan­cy bought us crea­my al­mond crois­sants to share. “We want to get to know people, and around food, it goes so well,” she said.

FOOD

9. Du­ring our Man­hat­tan de­tour, we stop­ped for a $21 tos­ta­da at Cosme in the Fla­ti­ron Dis­trict. Gran­ted, it came from Mexi­co's Mi­che­lin-star­red chef En­rique Ol­ve­ra and contai­ned sea ur­chin, but it was cer­tain­ly an on­ly-in-New-York in­dul­gence. The next night we ate at Leu­ca, chef An­drew Car­mel­li­ni's new res­tau­rant in the William Vale Ho­tel in William­sburg, where the line to get to the ho­tel's roof­top bar, in full thrall of the Man­hat­tan sky­line, star­ted around 4 p.m.

10. Brook­lyn has its own cadre of ce­le­bri­ty chefs lu­red across the ri­ver by lo­wer rents. But it's not a mi­ni-Man­hat­tan for the bud­get-min­ded. It's its own ani­mal, so­me­how more in­vi­ting and ac­ces­sible to the 99 percent. Here, the sin­ger Ig­gy Pop was po­sing nude for a dra­wing class when we vi­si­ted the art-filled Brook­lyn Mu­seum and jazz great Ram­sey Le­wis was per­for­ming a free concert at the Brook­lyn Aca­de­my of Mu­sic.

11. The Brook­lyn Na­vy Yard, an ex­pan­sive 300-acre patch of wa­ter­front es­ta­bli­shed in 1801 and the bir­th­place of the USS Maine, now serves as an in­cu­ba­tor for star­tups. We vi­si­ted the cen­ter of green en­tre­pre­neur­ship, hos­ting eve­ry­thing from a film stu­dio to an eco-ma­nu­fac­tu­ring cen­ter and ar­tist stu­dios, on Turns­tile Tours' two-hour trip around the docks ($30) that drew both his­to­ry buffs and hips­ters. 12. We clo­sed our Brook­lyn spree in the au­ral com­pa­ny of film­ma­ker Ken Burns, who nar­rates a new De­tour wal­king tour atop the Brook­lyn Bridge ($4.99). He calls it “one of the grea­test achie­ve­ments in hu­man his­to­ry.” The hand­some 1883 sus­pen­sion bridge was the first to connect Man­hat­tan and Brook­lyn by so­me­thing other than a boat. The span hel­ped pave the way for Brook­lyn's loss of in­de­pen­dence, 15 years la­ter, when it be­came a part of the lar­ger ci­ty. Still, more than a cen­tu­ry la­ter, its in­die iden­ti­ty is alive and well – and more hos­pi­table than ever.

Brook­lyn is the epi­cen­ter of the coun­try's craft re­nais­sance.

(Istock)

The Brook­lyn Bridge with the Man­hat­tan sky­line in the back­ground.

(Vincent Tul­lo/The New York Times)

New Lab, a space de­di­ca­ted to com­mer­cia­li­zing di­gi­tal-age hard­ware start-ups, at the Brook­lyn Na­vy Yard.

(SI­PA)

The Brook­lyn Flea in the neigh­bo­rhood of DUMBO.

(Erik Pend­zich/Shut­ter­stock/SI­PA)

Bu­sh­wick Col­lec­tive street art in Brook­lyn.

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