Na­tionaL trea­sures

VOGUE Hommes International (English) - - TRENDS -

Jean Paul Gaultier man is BIG. A chunky, brash, mo­tor–mouth. Jean Paul Gaultier man is, of course, the sailor in Fass­binder’s film Querelle, poured into that tarty striped jer­sey. Time­less. Jean Paul Gaultier man wore a skirt in the mid–80s ( a bold vari­a­tion on the long apron worn by French wait­ers –mod­elled by Stéphane Sed­naoui in the shock– and–awe run­way show of the decade ). Gaultier the man is also cou­ture man, with his vir­tu­oso bustiers, corseted waist­coats, and flirty frock coats, sin­gle– hand­edly bring­ing down the Ber­lin Wall of male fash­ions, mak­ing the big­gest splash, and send­ing his cat­walk au­di­ences into fits of in­sider laugh­ter. Jean Paul Gaultier man is also, of course, the out­ra­geous Tanel Be­drossiantz and his sashay­ing hips, much ad­mired by Linda Evan­ge­lista and the rest of the broth­ers and sis­ters in fash­ion. He had a way of pirou­et­ting at the end of the cat­walk, the poise of an aris­to­crat lost in a brothel. But Gaultier never re­ally went in for cross–dress­ing. When Madonna put cone bras on her dancers, it was her call, not Gaultier’s. Jean Paul Gaultier man has no de­sire to run with Sloans or pushy princesses — he’s also in­ter­ested in or­di­nary folk — even or­gan­ised an en­tire cat­walk show in the shape of a love poem to chavs in their san­dals, car­ry­ing beer bot­tles, wear­ing bucket hats and decked out in the full monty for a camp­ing hol­i­day. Gaultier dresses his man in a shirt pat­terned with su­perb abs and pecs. That’s Jean Paul Gaultier’s male fash­ions for you — fun, sexy, and feel­good, while un­der­neath those flirty frock coats, there’s al­ways a for­mal white shirt and black trousers — about as clas­sic as you can get. Jean Paul Gaultier, the man, stars in spring’s

must–see ex­hi­bi­tion. Don’t miss it! Grand Palais (Paris 8th ), 1st April — 3rd Au­gust 2015

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