Brooches re­veal sen­si­tiv­ity and per­son­al­ity, and have sur­rep­ti­tiously come back into fash­ion on jack­ets or hood­ies. Pin­ning down this gen­der–free phe­nom­e­non.

VOGUE Hommes International (English) - - JEWELLERY - PHO­TO­GRAPH Gi­a­como Valois Frédérique IN­TER­VIEW BY Ver­ley VOGUE HOMMES

— While men have worn brooches — for­merly known as fibu­las — since time im­memo­rial, the 19th century brought a dose of aus­ter­ity and sober­ness to the mas­cu­line wardrobe. Since that time, brooches have re­gained re­spectabil­ity and are proudly shown off on a lapel or, more ec­cen­tri­cally, on a bot­tom pocket, a belt or a hood. The idea is to use them to soften a rough tex­ture, such as denim or tweed, or, on the con­trary, to add a touch of chic to the fab­ric of a sweat­shirt. Three ex­perts en­lighten us on this dis­tinct item of jew­ellery, which doesn’t en­hance the skin, but rather the clothes it adorns.

VOGUE HOMMES Why now? ELIE TOP Be­cause glam rock styles, cou­pled with the grad­ual dis­ap­pear­ance of gen­der stereo­types, have cre­ated a new at­ti­tude, a “de – gen­dered ” take on this item of jew­ellery. At last !

LY­DIA COURTEILLE Many men love jew­ellery. But very few dare wear it. For­tu­nately, the in­trepid as­pect of men’s fash­ions at the mo­ment has opened the door and, sud­denly, ev­ery­thing’s pos­si­ble. So much the bet­ter, be­cause apart from watches, bracelets and cuff­links they had very few pos­si­bil­i­ties.

PIERRE RAINERO, CARTIER Be­cause to­day, men have greater free­dom in ex­press­ing their own par­tic­u­lar style. And a brooch, more than any other piece of jew­ellery, en­ables them to as­sert their dif­fer­ence. Es­pe­cially since men who col­lect pre­cious stones now want to wear them, and for them brooches are cur­rently one of the most suit­able ways to do so. VH The taste clanger to avoid ? ET Wear­ing a brooch on a swim­suit! LC An overly baroque spray or bou­quet of flow­ers. PR Any­thing that looks like a dis­guise. An overly heavy brooch or one that clashes with the wearer’s val­ues and style. VH What type of brooch for a mod­ern look? ET I would say brooches that re­call heraldic or chival­rous sym­bols, or evoke rock ’n’ roll and the van­i­ties. But the de­signs that work best are still quite clas­si­cal and fig­u­ra­tive, like stars, lilies, skulls and cer­tain an­i­mals such as wolves, lions and ea­gles. And ab­stract, Art Deco, or even more in­dus­trial shapes..

LC Round brooches like the de­signs worn by Karl Lager­feld, with lit­tle mo­tifs, plus di­a­monds of any kind, or safety pins dec­o­rated with dis­creet, raised or­na­men­ta­tion.

PR Tra­di­tion­ally a flower or an of­fi­cial dec­o­ra­tion worn on the lapel of a jacket. Some­times even a more un­usual vari­a­tion, like the Nail that Aldo Ca­sullo de­signed in New York in the 1970s. Bear in mind that moder­nity al­ways lies in the au­then­tic­ity and sin­cer­ity of our ap­proach to it.

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