Con­tem­po­rary Com­fort Cui­sine

Where Paris - - Dining / Restaurant -

The 11th ar­rondisse­ment of Paris con­tin­ues to be the best place to dis­cover the French cap­i­tal’s most in­ven­tive con­tem­po­rary cook­ing, be­cause it’s where so many of the city’s most tal­ented young chefs set up shop when they go out on their own. Re­cently, the trend here has been re­laxed, friendly places with nicely made cock­tails, a menu of in­ven­tive small plates to share, and wine lists that fea­ture or­ganic, nat­u­ral (no sul­phur added) and bio­dy­namic (the vines are tended ac­cord­ing to the phases of the moon) wines. This de­scrip­tion fits Anna, a charm­ing new neigh­bour­hood restau­rant by the same trio who had al­ready scored a hit with their nearby ta­ble Tan­nat, to a T, restau­ra­teurs Ari­ane Stern, Si­mon Auscher and chef Olivier Le Corre. To wit, this is a friendly, low-key, pleas­ant place with charm­ing ser­vice and a ter­rific menu of con­tem­po­rary com­fort food dishes to be shared. Start with the scal­lops with ap­ple, cel­ery and lemon and one of the best onion soups in Paris, it’s an al­lium lover’s dream, since it con­tains scal­lions, shal­lots and onions in a deeply re­duced beefy stock, and then tuck into main cour­ses like lac­quered pork spare ribs with roasted cau­li­flower or mac­a­roni and Gouda cheese with mush­rooms. Fin­ish up with the roasted ba­nana with dulce con leche. No reser­va­tions. - A.L. Anna 134-136 rue Saint Maur (11th)

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