A Seafood Icon

Where Paris - - Dining -

Just be­fore its 100th birth­day, one of the most ven­er­a­ble brasseries in Paris has just got­ten a stun­ning new dé­cor that re­flects its seafood-fo­cused new menu. Open daily, La Lor­raine of­fers a va­ri­ety of dif­fer­ent seat­ing op­tions, from quiet ban­quette ta­bles in niches to a large ter­race with views over the Place des Ternes. Ar­riv­ing, there’s a gor­geous mo­saic floor of swim­ming fish in front of the stand piled with crushed ice and seafood where the ecailleur pre­pares the gor­geous trays of im­pec­ca­bly fresh shell­fish and crus­taceans for which this ad­dress has long been well-known. Marine-themed mu­rals or­na­ment the walls of the din­ing room, along with ob­jects that cre­ate a chic fifties retro at­mos­phere. Be­yond shell­fish, start with sautéed baby squid with Chorizo, fish soup, snails or roasted lan­goustines, and then tuck into a grilled sole, salmon or tuna tartare, Scot­tish salmon with a saf­fron beurre blanc, chicken roasted with morels mush­rooms or a steak. Don’t miss the crêpes with Grand Marnier or the ex­cel­lent mille­feuille for dessert, and ser­vice here is charm­ing and con­vivial. – A.L.

La Lor­raine 2 Place des Ternes (8th), 01 56 21 22 00

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