New Brasserie on the Block

Where Paris - - Dining -

Tucked away in the Pas­sage des Panora­mas, a cov­ered walk­way that opened in 1799 and which is one of the most charm­ing and at­mo­spheric ad­dresses in Paris, As­tair is the new­est ad­dress of a trio of the French cap­i­tal’s most in­no­va­tive restau­ra­teurs, Jean Val­fort, Charles Drouhaut and Jean-François Mon­fort. Aside from a jazzy dé­cor, this team’s real coup was to per­suade chef Gilles Gou­jon, who has three Miche­lin stars at l’Au­berge du Vieux Puits in Fon­tjon­couse in the Langue­doc, to sign a menu for their jaunty brasserie. What this means is a spec­tac­u­larly good run of dishes that in­clude starters like es­car­gots, oys­ters and a sub­lime squid’s ink pasta with a car­damom-flavoured cut­tle­fish sauce and mains like sole me­u­nière and braised lamb shanks with aubergines, toma­toes and pick­led lemon. Fin­ish up with the fig tart or the baba au rhum, and be sure to book in ad­vance, since this place is de­servedly very pop­u­lar. – A.L.

As­tair 9 Pas­sage des Panora­mas (2nd), 09 81 29 50 95

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