New Brasserie on the Block
Tucked away in the Passage des Panoramas, a covered walkway that opened in 1799 and which is one of the most charming and atmospheric addresses in Paris, Astair is the newest address of a trio of the French capital’s most innovative restaurateurs, Jean Valfort, Charles Drouhaut and Jean-François Monfort. Aside from a jazzy décor, this team’s real coup was to persuade chef Gilles Goujon, who has three Michelin stars at l’Auberge du Vieux Puits in Fontjoncouse in the Languedoc, to sign a menu for their jaunty brasserie. What this means is a spectacularly good run of dishes that include starters like escargots, oysters and a sublime squid’s ink pasta with a cardamom-flavoured cuttlefish sauce and mains like sole meunière and braised lamb shanks with aubergines, tomatoes and pickled lemon. Finish up with the fig tart or the baba au rhum, and be sure to book in advance, since this place is deservedly very popular. – A.L.
Astair 9 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09 81 29 50 95