The right place for your modules
When entering the Eurorack world, you can‘t avoid choosing a case. But where to start? There are so many different options! We will introduce you to some questions that will help you make a decision and give examples of recommendations that we believe have proven to be effective. In our table you will find a selection of solid, valuable cases that can be a good starting point depending on your intended use and preference.
Now I‘m supposed to work on a case first, even though I actually want to get to the cool modules. Booooooooring! Nevertheless, it is worth giving some thought in advance. This saves you frustration and having to replace the housing all too quickly because you haven‘t taken one or two important little things into account. What should you pay attention to now?
Basic knowledge to get started – Dimensions, dimensions, dimensions
When specifying the size of cases and modules, you quickly come across the units HP and U. Horizontal Pitch, or HP for short, refers to the usable width of the case or the width of the module. One HP is equal to 0.2 inches or half a centimeter (0.508 cm) when rounded. Here in the magazine we use the German abbreviation TE for Teileinheit (engl. sub-subunit). As with other studio equipment, U stands for rack unit. 1U is equal to 1 ¾ inches or approximately 4.4 cm (4.445 cm).
Here in the magazine it is called HE for Höheneinheit (engl. rack unit). Eurorack modules are usually 3U high. The range of 1U modules is still manageable, but is constantly growing. With a standard 19 inch rack we have 95HP, of which 84HP is usually usable. For a 23-inch rack, that would be 115HP with 104HP of usable space - two sizes that are common with many manufacturers. You also come across the term “skiff” more often. A skiff case is particularly flat and therefore usually lighter, smaller and easier to handle. However, it may not offer space for particularly deep modules. The term „skiff friendly“is used when modules are rather flat in design and can therefore be mounted downwards even when space is limited.
Enough of dry terminology. How much HP should you have to start with?
What size do I need to get started? Can it be a little more?
Small racks (up to 104HP at 3U) are ideal, for example, for clearly defined tasks, such as pure effects cases, housing individual modules for the desktop, as an extension for a semi-modular synth or as a small accompaniment for a groove box. In our experience, choosing a small case to start with solely to keep the financial investment as low as possible does not pay off. As a rule, systems tend to grow. Large cases, such as the typical wall units à la Colin Benders or Steevio, are needed if you are planning a modular-centered studio with a complex sound design system. In our opinion, small and large cases are for people with clear ideas who already know where the journey should take them. Everyone else should look at medium-sized cases (up to 104HP for 6U to 12U). This allows you to design the killer mono synths, the live groovebox or the spacey Ambient machine - in short, the dream instrument. There are only financial limits to your imagination here. A special feature whose value may not be immediately apparent at the beginning is the 1U series. Some cases, such as the 7U cases from Make Noise, offer a 1U row with fixed functionality. Other manufacturers, such as Befaco or Intellijel, enable sockets built into the case to be used for MIDI and audio connectivity via 1U modules. Others, such as the Sector Sieben 7U Skiff, simply offer a freely configurable 1U row. In any case, this allows us to accommodate additional tasks in a small space, make the main rows clearer and ultimately simplify the signal flow.
Our recommendation:
If you have little previous experience, don‘t have a clear idea of where you want to go and are still ready to take the plunge, then start with 6U or 7U! In this way, a functioning, independent system can be implemented in any case. If you want more later, the whole thing can be expanded with a second case. On the other hand, you don‘t need to be afraid of empty sections. You can take your time filling it with growing experience. Space for experimentation is also valuable. Buying and selling is also part of building a system. There is a very active, healthy used market. This means that the “learning money” paid in the event of bad purchases usually remains low.
I need more electricity! How much power does the system draw?
Most cases on the market offer a power supply. The power supply unit is either in the case itself or has an external power adapter. The latter variant allows for more depth inside when installing modules. This can, but does not have to be, decisive. Modules usually require an operating voltage of +12V and -12V. Some also rely on a +5V supply. Older cases that you bought used, for example, may not provide +5V power - be sure to check beforehand! The power consumption of the modules is given in milliamperes (mA). If you know the modules you want to install, you can determine your overall requirements. Caution! Some modules draw more current when switched on than during operation. That‘s why we always plan for some buffer. As a rule of thumb, a fully analog system requires more space and less power. When it comes to digital, the situation is usually the other way around. The number of slots that the case offers is also crucial. You should make sure you have a sufficient number of slots. What is sufficient depends, of course, on the size of the installed modules. For example, 18 slots are rather tight for many smaller modules between 2HP and 8HP with 6U. An important detail is the reverse polarity protection at the slot. This plug consists of a small plastic surround around the pins that carry current. This makes it virtually impossible to connect expensive modules incorrectly and destroy them immediately during commissioning. In addition, the power supply pins are protected from bending during frequent installation and removal.
Our recommendation:
6U cases should provide around 2000mA on +12V and -12V and 1000mA on -5V as well as 20 slots. Reverse polarity protection is also a useful plus. The Modular Grid website is a brilliant tool for planning a system. There you can virtually configure cases and equip them with modules. The power consumption of the entire system, the maximum depth, the approximate new price and the number of modules installed are displayed to you.
Rails – mounting for your modules
Some cases offer sliding nuts – movable screw holes, others fixed rails – so strips with threaded holes. Both offer advantages and disadvantages. Sliding nuts are generally lighter and cheaper. Since we‘re not into racing bike tuning here, this fact isn‘t that important. However, the distances can be individually adjusted using the movable thread particles so that there are no gaps between the modules. Punched tapes offer the advantage that, for example, if the system is partially converted, a screw hole is always available in the right place and no loose nuts have to be searched for in the rail. In addition, there are no unscrewed individual parts rattling around in the rails during transport or when jamming with big bass.
Our recommendation:
If you frequently install or remove modules, which will certainly be the case initially, then use fixed rails. This saves you time and nerves. Use module screws with plastic washers. This preserves the value of your modules because the appearance does not suffer from scratches on the surface (rack rash) - a popular argument when negotiating prices when buying used. Befaco Knurlies (M3 or M2.5), for example, are offered including washers and can also be tightened and loosened by hand.
Material – Do I need it nice, stable or cheap?
The most commonly used materials for cases are wood, various metals such as sheet steel or aluminum and plastic. The choice of material influences weight, resilience and appearance. Do I want to transport my system to jams or gigs? Will I possibly even be traveling internationally and should it also be the right size for hand luggage on airlines? Should it simply be an eye-catcher as a piece of furniture in the studio? Or do I give a damn about all of this and the main thing is that it’s cheap?
Our recommendation:
Aluminum housings offer a good mix of lightweight construction and indestructibility, which is ideal for transportable cases with a lockable lid. When it comes to pure studio equipment, however, nothing beats real wood. Plastic is still the cheapest option at the moment. A cover, whether as a removable, lockable lid or as a simple dust cover made of PET, is a useful feature to protect the modules when traveling or in the studio.
Specials, extras, non-standard forms
The product variety for housings is now very large and is constantly growing. Here you will find some short suggestions about where you can look outside of the mainstream.
The DIY scene in the Eurorack area is large and diverse. Individual parts for rack construction are easily available (schneidersladen.de). So why not build a custom case yourself? Rackmount kits can be a space-saving alternative in the studio. If you want to accommodate your modules directly in the existing 19 inch studio rack, you will find a suitable, inexpensive solution in the Tiptop Audio Happy Ending Kit (tiptopaudio.com). For musicians who want to stick with the classic playing feel of an instrument, the Cre8audio NiftyKEYZ, for example, offers the perfect platform for modular experiments with an integrated keyboard and additional utilities. Sinusoda is new on the market with a housing system that can be expanded as desired. Fixed case size is a thing of the past! This case simply grows with your needs.