UNKNOWN, UNDERLOVED, UNDERRATED

They rarely steal the limelight, but AARON MILLAR makes the case for America’s unloved state capitals

AARON MILLAR skips the glitzy cities for America’s underappreciated state capitals

In the hit new film Lady Bird, showing onboard this month, Christine ‘Lady Bird’ McPherson spends her last year at high school looking for love, falling out with her mum and trying desperately to escape her hometown of Sacramento, California.

So far, so teen angst. But this film’s special. With Lady Bird, first-time writerdirector Greta Gerwig does the impossible and enriches the most cliched genre in all of Hollywood with authenticity, humour and heartwarming pathos. The critics noticed, bestowing it with two Golden Globes and five Oscar nominations.

But the surprising star is the city itself. Old Sacramento is a 11-hectare National Historic Landmark District, along the banks of the Sacramento River, which recreates the ambience of the 1849 Gold Rush era: restored Old West buildings, raised wooden sidewalks, steam trains, paddle-ships and horse and carriage rides. There’s the Rio City Cafe, with an outdoor patio overlooking the water; and the art, shopping and nightlife of the city’s hip Midtown neighbourhood, including the stylish rustic-modern Red Rabbit for fresh seasonal produce (Sacramento is California’s farm-to-fork capital) and artisan cocktails. Sacramento is on its way up; Lady Bird would have been proud.

This unsung state capital of California may not have the glamour of Los Angeles, the culture of San Francisco or the silicon of San Jose, but it makes you think: if Sacramento is secretly cool, which other state capitals are hiding in the shadow of their louder, hipper neighbours?

本月機上放映門熱 新片《得不鳥小姐》，述講 還有年一 就高中畢業的Christine「Lady Bird」McPherson，像一般青少年那樣尋覓愛、情 與母親吵架，想而且方設法逃離家鄉州加 沙加緬度。

故事聽來不過就是青春期的煩惱，但這部電影自有獨特之處。本片導演Greta Gerwig首編次自 自導，就創下令人意想不到 的佳績，以寫實、幽默以及溫暖人心的感染力荷，李為 活老最 套的類型電影帶來深度與創意，並且贏得兩項金球獎以及獲得五項奧斯卡提名。

不過本片有個出人意方的亮點，就是故發事 生的地點沙加緬度。沙加緬度城舊是佔地11公頃的國家歷史地標區位，沙於加緬度河畔；裡面有經復修的舊式西部樓房、墊高了的木造行人道、汽蒸 火車、明輪船與供人乘坐馬的 匹及馬等車 ，重現1849年金淘 熱潮時的氣氛。，此外 這裡有Rio City Cafe餐廳，設有可眺望河景的戶外陽臺；還有藝廊與各式商店。城中潮區Midtown有精采的夜生活有，也 風格質樸而滿充 現代感的Red Rabbit餐廳，以新鮮時令食材烹調各式美沙食（ 加緬度是加農州場直送食材的重鎮） ，以及精製尾心調 的雞酒。愈來愈多開人 始留意沙加緬度這個城市， Lady Bird一定會引以為榮。這個不起眼的加州州府可能風頭星不及 光熠熠的洛杉磯、文化氣息濃厚的三藩市或矽谷所在地聖荷西，，沙不過 如果 加緬度有在也 養 深閨人未識的魅力；那麼美國是否還有類似的州府，被附少更突出、更新潮的鄰居掩蓋了它們的鋒芒？

OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON

Seattle is the state of Washington’s celebrity city, but little-known Olympia, just 100 kilometres south, at the foot of Puget Sound – home to one of the highest concentrations of whales and dolphins in the world – has that same laidback culture condensed to a walkable size. Stroll the historic downtown, which is filled with artisan shops, street musicians and some of the best craft beer in the country, including at local’s favourite the Fish Tale Brewpub; eat fresh oysters watching the sunset at Anthony’s Hearthfire Grill; or just rent a bike and explore the city’s numerous outdoor spaces – including Tumwater Falls Park, where you can watch salmon leap upriver each autumn to spawn. Just as good is the city’s location: Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument (home of the eponymous volcano that erupted in 1980),

Mount Rainier (the highest peak in the state) and the gorgeous coastline of the

Olympic Peninsula are all an easy day trip away. The 19th century Swantown Inn & Spa, in a quiet downtown location, makes the perfect base. experienceolympia.com

華盛頓州，奧林匹亞

西雅圖是華盛頓州的名城，不過位西於雅圖以只南 有100公里、在Puget Sound海灣下端的奧林匹亞卻沒有多少人認識。聚居於海灣裡的鯨魚和海豚密度之高冠絕全球，而這個位於海灣畔的州府面積不大溢，洋 悠閒的生活氣息，最宜以漫步方式暢遊一番歷。 史悠久的市中心手工藝店林立，街頭有音樂人在演方 ，找還可 到全國最佳的手工啤酒。不妨到當地人最喜歡的Fish Tale Brewpub酒吧來一杯冰凍啤酒，或者到Anthony’s Hearthfire Grill餐廳，一面品嚐新鮮生蠔一面欣賞日落美。景你也可以租輛單車到市內各處周遊，例如Tumwater Falls Park公園，秋季時更可以看到三文魚沿河逆流而上產卵的情形。這個城位市 置適中，鄰少有多個值得一遊的好去處： 括聖海倫火國山 家紀念碑（這是聖海倫火山於1980年日發的遺址）全、 州最高的Mount Rainier山，還有奧林匹克半島風光優美的海岸線等是，都 一日遊的理想行程。建於19世紀，外貌古色古香的Swantown Inn & Spa旅館及水療中心，位於市中心的清地點，想是理 的下榻選之 。experienceolympia.com

MONTPELIER, VERMONT

Montpelier is the smallest state capital in the country, home to just 7,500 people. But what it lacks in size it makes up for in quintessential New England charm. Set in the foothills of the Green Mountains, the heart of autumn leaf-peeping territory, Montpelier has a thriving arts scene with streets laden with cute independent galleries, artsy cafes and fresh, farmto-table restaurants, including Kismet (start with a Vermont gin infused Honey Martinez cocktail for a real treat). The

Vermont State House, one of the oldest and best-preserved capitol buildings in the country, is worth a visit; the Three Penny Tap Room showcases the best of Vermont’s microbrew scene; and this being New England there’s as much maple syrup as you can handle. What you won’t find is a McDonald’s: Montpelier is the only state capital in the country without one. Stay at The Inn at Montpelier, a 19th century building with elegant four-poster beds and handwoven quilts, for some serious spoiling. vermontvacation.com

佛蒙特州，蒙特佩利爾

蒙特佩利爾是全國最小的州府，人口只有7,500人。雖然積面 細小，可是這個城卻市擁有典型的新英倫迷人風光。蒙特佩利爾位於Green Mountains山的山腳下，秋是季觀賞紅葉的勝地城； 中到處都可見到雅緻的藝廊、文藝氣息濃厚的咖啡室，以及選用農場直送新鮮食材的餐廳。不妨前往Kismet餐廳，來一杯加了佛蒙特氈酒的Honey Martinez雞尾酒，可說是無上享受。此外，佛蒙特州議會大廈是國全 其中一座最古老也保存得最完好的州議會大廈，值得前參往觀。Three Penny Tap Room啤酒酒吧供應佛蒙特州上乘的小規模釀製啤酒，極有色特 。由於這裡是新英，倫 你也可以在這裡盡情享受楓糖漿的美。味 不過你在這裡不會找到麥當勞連鎖快餐店，蒙特佩利爾是全國唯一一個沒有麥當勞連鎖快餐店的州府。The Inn at Montpelier旅館建於世19紀，客房內有雅典 的四柱床大 和倍感舒適的人手縫製被褥，是不的俗 住宿選擇。vermontvacation.com

CARSON CITY, NEVADA

Las Vegas may have all the glitz and neon lights, but Carson City has Old West charm, outdoors fun and plenty of gambling, but on a smaller, friendlier scale. Follow the Kit Carson Trail through downtown to learn about the 150year history of the capital; take a ride onboard The Glenbrook, an authentic 19th century steam train; or explore Carson City’s huge selection of antiques shops – Hanifin’s Arts & Antiques is a veritable Aladdin’s cave and one of the biggest in Nevada. But this is an outdoor town at heart: the city limits stretch all the way to the shoreline of Lake Tahoe, with secluded beaches, bright turquoise water and hills all around. Float trip down the Carson River, hike up to the King’s Canyon waterfall and finish off at the century- old Carson Hot Springs Resort for a soothing soak and swim. Check out

The Union for seasonal local food and the

Gold Dust West Hotel & Casino for good gaming and accommodation deals. visitcarsoncity.com

內華達州，卡森市

拉維斯 加斯的有 是五光十色的霓虹燈和紙醉金迷的娛樂場所，但卡森市卻擁有古老的西部風情和有趣的外戶 活動；這裡也有博彩娛樂，不過規模小得多，氣氛亦友善親切得多。沿著穿越市中心的Kit Carson Trail古蹟徑漫步，可認以 識這個州府過去150年的歷史；或者乘坐由19世紀保存至今的The Glenbrook蒸汽火車暢遊一番，再到市內林立的古董店選購心頭好。Hanif in’s Arts & Antiques古董店規模十分大，在內華達州數一數二，是名副其實的。市寶山 卡森 位於Lake Tahoe湖畔，湖水翠存，擁有多個僻的沙，灘可以盡情享受戶外活動。此外，還可以乘船沿著卡森河遊河船 ，者或 前往King’s Canyon瀑布遠足，然後在有百年歷史的卡森溫泉度假村浸溫泉和游泳，舒緩勞疲。The Union餐廳供應出當地 產的時令美，食 讓你大快朵頤；而Gold Dust West Hotel & Casino酒店及賭場則是博彩耍樂和下榻的理想之選。visitcarsoncity.com