THE TAILORING ITINERARY

From Milan to Paris, the fashion industry has gone full tilt on streetwear, but you can always trust London to buck a trend, writes RYAN THOMPSON無論是米蘭還是巴黎，時裝業均全面傾向街頭服飾，但Ryan Thompson認為倫敦永遠有辦抵時法 抗 尚潮流

How to seek out a suit in London. By RYAN THOMPSON

DESIGNERS BROUGHT UP in a world where the trainer reigns supreme now helm the world’s biggest fashion houses. The dominance of streetwear may lead one to assume that the future of the classic suit is hanging by a thread.

Not in London. Fashion in the UK capital is rarely a slave to, well, fashion: and now classic menswear is undergoing yet another renaissance. And that means the suit – which, after all, is a garment designed to flatter: a jacket that accentuates the breadth of the shoulders, makes one’s waist appear narrower and withstands the rigours of the three- course business lunch.

The difference is in the styling of today’s creations. On Savile Row, the world’s most famous street for menswear, not a huge amount changes. There you’ll find master tailors aplenty, but mavericks? Not so much. If you want to find the designers reimagining the suit for a more creative audience, you’ll need to look slightly further afield…

KIT BLAKE

Barely a season old, this label founded by Christopher Modoo and Richard Wheat has already made a big impression at the smarter end of London’s tailoring scene. Favouring roomy, pleated trousers and peak lapel double-breasted blazers, Kit Blake is very much for the purist. It’s still a bestkept secret – with no physical shop and only the occasional pop-up, you’ll need to go online for the ready-to-wear collection. kitblake.com

TIMOTHY EVEREST

When Timothy Everest opened his townhouse in Shoreditch over 20 years ago, far from the tailoring crowd in Mayfair, many thought him mad. But his softly tailored silhouette, skill with unusual fabrics and consistent reinvention have made him a must-visit for unique suits or separates. An avid cyclist, Everest is keenly aware of the need for movement and comfort, so frequent travellers would be well advised to seek him out.

37 Redchurch Street and 35 Bruton Place, timothyeverest.co.uk

CONNOLLY

Connolly takes a more contemporary approach to classic menswear silhouettes. Favouring a unisex style with an elegant drape and soft contours, it’s a far cry from the sharp shoulders and papercut lapels of Savile Row. Designer Marc Audibet is a genius with the shears, creating versatile tailoring that can be dressed up or down with ease.

4 Clifford Street, connollyengland.com

DRAKE’S

Michael Drake’s eponymous brand, founded in 1977, has built a devoted following of young tailoring aficionados who crave interesting fabrics without a brow-raising price tag. In fact, Drake’s is probably the best-value tailoring brand in London right now and customer service in its Clifford Street shop is second to none. The Easyday suiting range is a steal for elegant business attire. For weekends, its corduroy options will have everyone asking where you got your suit from.

3 Clifford Street, drakes.com

EDWARD SEXTON

One of the icons of British bespoke tailoring, Edward Sexton has never deviated from a distinctly romantic aesthetic, taking inspiration from the art deco period of the 1920s and ’30s. Based in Knightsbridge, Sexton’s small atelier still produces some of the sharpest and most flamboyant cuts in London, with strong, firmly roped shoulders providing a powerfully masculine look. His highwaisted Hollywood pleated trousers are also a must for those who prefer old-world nostalgia over new-world hype.

26 Beauchamp Place, edwardsexton.co.uk

許多現正執掌全球一線時裝品牌的設計師均成長於球鞋盛行的年代，街頭服飾大行其道，不禁令人以為，傳統西裝的地位將會岌岌可危。

不過，倫敦的時裝卻向來不受時尚潮流束，縛而經典的男士西裝則更有興復的趨勢。說到底，西裝的功用在於令人穿上後變得姿英 颯颯，一件稱身的外套能凸顯肩膀線條，並令腰線收窄，看令人 不出你剛享用過三道菜的商務午餐。

對比今昔的西裝，你發會 現相異之處在於造型。在舉世知名的男裝裁街縫 Savile Row，這種變化並不明顯。那裡有大批手藝精湛的大師級裁縫，但別出心裁的卻寥寥可數。若要尋找在西裝上追求意創 風格的設計，師 請移玉步遠到較 的地方去……

Kit Blake

這個品牌由Christopher Modoo及Richard Wheat創辦，推出短短一季，已迅即在倫敦高裁界級 縫 闖出名堂。Kit Blake以打褶的寬鬆西褲及尖角領翻 雙襟西裝外套為是主，簡約洋服設計的首選。品牌目前仍屬為鮮 人知的瑰寶，並無實體店，僅偶開然 設期間限定店，要購買衣成 系，要列 就 光顧網其 店。kitblake.com

Timothy Everest

20多年前， Timothy Everest在Shoreditch區住所 的一間屋住排 式 宅內開店，遠離西裝店林立的Mayfair區。許多人認為此舉毫

Flexi-time

Timothy Everest suits are designed to move (top); Connolly shopfront and suits (middle); Drake’s (bottom left); Timothy Everest (bottom right) 靈活設計

Timothy Everest的西裝特別為好動的人而設計（上圖）； Connolly店舖外貌及店內各款服裝（中圖）； Drake’s（左下圖）及Timothy Everest（右下圖） 不理智。但他以獨特的布料，精工剪裁出細膩的線條，而且不時推陳出新，令喜愛獨一無二的西裝或單品的有心人，將他的店視為不能錯過的勝地。Everest本人是單車發燒友，深明西伸自裝 展 如、舒稱適 身的重要，經常需要公幹的人不妨往他的店選購。37RedchurchStreet及35Bruton Place，timothyeverest.co.uk

Connolly

Connolly擅長於在傳男統的 士西裝中注入大量現代元素。品牌主打中性設計，衣襬優輕，條雅 靈線 柔和，剪裁跟Savile Row常見的落利 膊位和尖挺翻領相大 逕庭。計設師Marc Audibet的作品巧奪天工，穿上由他縫製百衣的 搭 飾，無論出席大小場合均能令你顯得與眾不同。4CliffordStreet，connollyengland.com

Drake’s

Michael Drake於1977年以自己的姓氏創辦這個品牌，由於所用物料別具特色而，價且格相，宜 吸引了大批輕年 潮人追隨而。 事實上， Drake’s堪稱現時全倫敦最超西值的 裝品牌，位於Clifford Street街的店舖為顧客提供的服務亦同樣數一數二。Easyday西裝系列設計優雅是， 上班服裝的不二之選至；於周末消閒，品牌出品的燈芯絨西裝，定能吸引一眾男士向你打聽置裝地點。3CliffordStreet，drakes.com

Edward Sexton

Edward Sexton是國英 極具代表性的訂製洋服店，向來遵循一套獨而漫特 浪 的美學向， 1920至30年代的裝飾藝術擷取靈感。Sexton的店舖位於Knightsbridge區，雖然規模細小，至今仍是倫敦剪裁最精湛、究最講 的裁縫工作坊，縫製出的西裝肩線筆挺，穿令人 上顯得帥氣不凡。他的高腰打寬褶長褲是，亦 喜歡懷舊多於追逐潮流之士的必備款式。26BeauchampPlace，edwardsexton.co.uk