CURRYING FLAVOUR

Chef Gizzy Alesbrook returns to her roots and takes KEE FOONG on a culinary tour of Sri Lanka

KEE FOONG heads to Sri Lanka with Gisela Alesbrook, the head chef of Black Sheep Restaurants’ Hotal Colombo, for a food tour of her home country

The seaside town of Unawatuna, near Galle on the southwest tip of Sri Lanka, is known for many things: swaying coconut trees, golden sands, azure waters and rope swings that extend over the Indian Ocean surf for that all-important Instagram snap.

What Unawatuna is not known for is food. Yet, on a four-day glutton’s tour of the teardrop island, it’s where we have our most memorable meal. Leading the expedition is Sri Lankan-born chef Gisela ‘Gizzy’ Alesbrook, who heads up Hotal Colombo in Hong Kong. She’s determined to show us the unique wonders of her nation’s under-represented cuisine (note: it is not the same as Indian food).

The hand-drawn sign pointing down a dirt lane to Happy Spice (120 Yaddehimulla Rd) doesn’t look promising. The no-frills space and absence of other diners doesn’t, either. But concerns soon evaporate when, after taking our order, chef-owner Chintha goes to her garden to pick bunches of curry leaves.

We follow her into the kitchen, where the tang of spice lingers – pepper, chilli, cumin, cloves, turmeric, fenugreek and cinnamon. Chintha cooks and shares tips with Alesbrook while her son squeezes fresh coconut milk from just-grated coconut flesh. Clearly, this is no place for curry in a hurry.

A good hour later, we are feasting on a spread that includes sweet and sour devilled squid, earthy pumpkin curry, and tuna curry that hints of the sea.