China Daily

Winter warmers

- By XU HAOYU xuhaoyu@chinadaily.com.cn

Want to know how to stay warm yet look cool in winter?

Bosideng, the Chinese brand that has specialize­d in down jackets for 42 years, may have the answer with its latest collection.

The collection is co-designed by three internatio­nal designers — Tim Coppens from the United States, Antonin Tron from France and Ennio Capasa from Italy.

Coppens, former design director of Ralph Lauren and creative director of Karl Lagerfeld, has introduced 17 design pieces.

His collection called “Shelter” features fur and various highend fabrics with a variety of stitching techniques.

Models walked out wearing long white down coats that reached to their ankles. A harmonious look was achieved with white sweaters, dresses in nude pink, and long black and white scarves and black snowshoes.

The “fake” two-piece design also demonstrat­ed Coppen’s proficient use of overlappin­g fabric, wrapping the models like cabbages. There were also more casual short jackets with a tartan design, matched with a big scarf that the models could bury their mouths in.

The traditiona­l craftsmans­hip of the brand is to the fore in the designs, including the up to 800+ fill power of down feathers (one of the most important standards to measure the warmth retention property of the down and feather filled products, which refers to the volume of down feather per ounce. The higher the figure the more warmth), 3 centimeter 13-pin internal and external sutures that block the wind, and 100 percent eco-dyed fabric.

Tron was the chief designer of luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and Givenchy. He participat­ed in the design of 15 pieces of the new collection called “New Generation”.

The collection features pieces designed to naturally fit the shape of the body while allowing movement. High-tech windproof and waterproof Gore-tex has been applied to give the down products more functional­ity.

The A-shaped silhouette and special sliver color made the design very futuristic and modern. Although the second down jacket is carried upside down on models’ back, the special design that placed an upturned collar at the lower hem was even more eye-catching. Is it Tron’s way to encourage the new generation to look at the world from a different angle?

Capasa, a designer favored by celebritie­s including Lady Gaga, also brought 15 pieces, aiming to express people’s wilder natures.

He was inspired by the cold weather and snow in Scandinavi­a. He also collected materials from Iceland and used them as decoration on the garment, while adding details such as printing and embroideri­es showing natural scenery and animal graphics.

The collection is co-designed by three internatio­nal designers — Tim Coppens from United States, Antonin Tron from France and Ennio Capasa from Italy.

He presented down jackets of different lengths, some just reached the hip and some reached the calves. He chose black and white as the main color of the series. Such a choice might be related to his twoand-a-half-year learning experience with Yohji Yamamoto, the famous Japanese fashion designer who works in black and white.

The cocoon shape of the down jackets, the sliver vest, the black patent leather with distinct drape touch, and bags broader than the model’s waist all revealed his rock’n’roll style.

“For me, Bosideng is a company that has a strong past and will have a strong future, and that is exactly the way I see it. Look at the past, don’t forget the roots, but at the same time experiment for the future,” says Capasa.

“I would love to see Bosideng as a very trendy brand that can talk to many different people,” he says.

The brand itself also launched pieces that showed its innovation ability with design details including camouflage down jackets with drawstring waistbands, cut longer in the rear, with open collars and big puff sleeves.

 ?? PHOTOS PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY ?? Designer Ennio Capasa from Italy.
PHOTOS PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY Designer Ennio Capasa from Italy.
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