Treasure that the world passes by
A small town revels in the beauty that a lack of ‘progress’ brings
The old town of Heshun is so far off the beaten tourist track that it is overlooked by millions of tourists who pour into China each year to swoop on much better known locales and attractions.
For the very few who do happen to venture to — or stumble over — Heshun, in the far west of southwestern Yunnan province, this is just as well, for that means the town well and truly lives up to its name, which means peace and harmony.
There are towns throughout China that through the sheer, unstoppable force of “progress” have developed to the point that they have lost something of their charm — a case in point, People’s Daily has suggested, being Heshun’s Yunnan sibling Lijiang old town, about 500 kilometers to the northeast.
Heshun continues to appeal to the relatively few who go there thanks to its idyllic scenery, long history, indigenous culture and interesting — and in places quirky — architecture. However, one thing tourists will not find here is the commercial buzz evident in more popular tourist spots.
The town was first built by soldiers of the frontier army about 400 years ago, and it is evident, from their physiognomy and their way of living, that most of its residents are Han Chinese, in contrast with the ethnic groups that make up much of the population in surrounding areas.
Because Heshun is relatively isolated it has been able to largely maintain its traditional Chinese culture with characteristics of the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911).
Eleven years ago it was designated a national-level historical and cultural town and is reputed for the ancient architecture that has been well preserved in its many old buildings.
Nevertheless, the town’s leaders have made an attempt over the past 40 years, in line with the country’s economic opening up, to make something of its cultural assets, and it has become a model in Yunnan for its promotion and management of cultural and ecological tourism.
Heshun is about 5 kilometers west of the county town of Tengchong and as you approach, you will see that it spreads over a slope that rises gently from a river that is like a sparkling welcoming mat in front of the town’s main gate.
The narrow streets and lanes of Heshun are replete with architectural structures, including ornately decorated archways and ancestral halls, temples and former residences of the area’s wealthy families.
Wanlouzi, or the “bent house”, is one of them. It is one of the eight most famous scenic attractions in town and is a great example of local architecture.
It is a well-preserved complex that consists of three courtyards covering nearly 1,200 square meters. Its nickname derives from the fact that it was built to align with the curves of the lane in which it is located.
It is the former residence of Li Dejue and his brother, the owners of a well-known local trade company called Yongmaohe early last century.
Li’s family was among one of Tengchong’s most prominent families with its long and successful practice in international business and trading.
Li Kunba, 85, a fifth-generation descendant of Yongmaohe’s founder, still lives alone here, taking care of the ancestral property.
To better protect the house, Li decided to donate it to the government years ago. It has been turned into a museum demonstrating local architecture after being renovated by the government in 2000.
The front courtyard is used to exhibit the family history of its owner, the middle one to show off local residential culture, and the backyard, attached to a hotel, quiet and elegant accommodation for tourists who wish to savor Heshun’s culture and history.
Li’s daily routines include cleaning the house, taking care of the plants, and feeding her chicken.
The house receives many visitors during the peak tourist season, such as the public holidays, Li greets them warmly, and often recounts family stories to those who have the time to listen.
“I grew up here,” she says. “I can live a very peaceful and quite life here in my old home. It’s why I don’t want to go to live with my children in the city.”
The former Southwest Silk Road ran through Heshun, which flourished as a result of the passing caravans, and resulted in a potpourri of cultures having an influence on the town. Since it is only 70 kilometers from the China-Myanmar border, it used to be very popular for local residents to travel to Myanmar to trade in jade or to make a living some other way based on that proximity. However, many of the same business people never returned, even if they still have strong ties to their hometown.
Li’s family accumulated wealth from international trade as well. Her parents used to hire a tutor from Shanghai to teach their sons English and other subjects at home. Li also had a chance to sit with her brothers in the class.
The family’s wealth is evident in the furniture and many of the architectural details, including: cast-iron railings at the top of an accountant’s office that were imported from England and carried in by caravan from Myanmar; a huge safe in the office; a Western-style cooking range; and a hand-operated noodle press. These things were rare in the developed areas of eastern China until after reform and opening-up began in the late 1970s.
Li says her family was very traditional and abided by many of the teachings from ancestral times, including letting the children study during the day but helping the parents at other times, instead of employing servants.
What Li is particularly proud of is that her family were stalwart defenders of the nation during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression (1931-45), including donating a warplane to the Chinese army. In Heshun, there was a museum devoted to that conflict. The museum has now been moved to the county town.
Maintaining a family tradition of trading, most of Li’s relatives have moved abroad and are now scattered throughout the world, she says, including one in Myanmar whom she visited last year.
When you slowly walk around in the town, through the alleys and the streets paved with slab stones, you are likely to see the locals like Li, sitting relaxed in front of their houses or shops, or gathering at the entrances to alleys, seemingly assured that the pace of life will never be disturbed by the visitors.