Women in menswear
Experts say androgynous fashion doesn’t subtract from femininity but can work well if done right, Chen Meiling reports.
Some women prefer clothing that appears more masculine — suits, ties, waistcoats and overalls — over intricately designed feminine garments.
A rising awareness among women of their independence, individuality and social recognition, as well as the gradual changes in gender culture at work and home, have manifested in their choices of attire, experts say.
The fashion of taking an androgynous appearance, which Chinese pop fans first learned from Japanese and South Korean stars, also suggests Chinese society’s open approach to aesthetics, they add.
Yao Qing, 23, cut her hair shorter and got rid of her floral skirts after becoming a college sophomore in 2016.
She started wearing collared shirts, loose pants and sneakers, and chose clothes with few patterns and black, white and gray color schemes.
“I felt more myself that way,” Yao says, adding that although she has maintained the image of a “sweet and well-behaved lady” for years, she has been actually fond of outdoor sports such as skateboarding and skiing since childhood.
“I don’t agree with the stereotype of women being fragile (as suggested by some apparel makers). Women have the same courage and heroic spirit as men. We are free to show our true personality,” she says, adding that high-heeled shoes and skirts are inconvenient for daily use and action.
She majored in preschool education, as advised by her mother, but Yao now works for a design company in Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, a field that interests her.
Xuan Yanmin, 34, a public service worker in Hangzhou, buys new clothes every season. Sometimes she visits both womenswear and menswear stores to pick up jeans, loose T-shirts, overalls, pullovers, pencil pants and boots.
She says male apparel is more comfortable, although the designs aren’t as diverse and fitting of body curves as womenswear.
She reads fashion magazines and posts on Sina Weibo to learn more about fashion. Sometimes photos of women wearing business suits and high heels in offices impress her. “They look vigorous, confident and resolute at the workplace.”
Xuan, who is single and lives with her parents, says society is more open now. “No one will judge you by the way you dress.”
“How handsome girls can be in menswear” is a topic on the microblogging site that received over 70 million views and 15,000 comments in late April.
The blogger, promoting the topic, says in a video that she had opened the closet of her boyfriend to try on his clothes. Some netizens commented she looked handsome and cool while others said they were
Female executives in menswear can also enhance their image as strong leaders. The key is to learn about your own strengths and weaknesses ... and choose clothes that can help you be more confident.” Shang Tao, stylist and founder of Studio Atao
inspired to try garments of male members in their families.
For Jiang Mengmin, 34, a garment producer in Taizhou, Zhejiang, the distinction between womenswear and menswear is not so obvious in modern times.
“The trend of an androgynous style is seen in clothing of both genders. Menswear has also become mellower,” she says, adding that it shows society has become more inclusive and diverse in tastes.
In the 2020 spring and summer collection of brands such as Celine, Max Mara and Louis Vuitton, elements of suits, ties, waistcoats and loose pants have been used in female apparel.
Shang Tao, a stylist and founder of Studio Atao, a training school for cosmetics and fashion, says dressing like men will not affect women’s feminine charm but will magnify it if done properly.
“The point is not to confuse others about your gender,” he says. “Female characteristics should be revealed in details such as hairstyle, makeup and accessories.”
Shang says loose shirts match tight trousers while tight shirts match loose trousers. Retro elements of menswear, including woolen textures, old boots, watches and cologne, can add their attraction.
Women properly dressed in men’s styles can come across as “high-end, fashionable, independent and tasteful”, he says.
“Female executives in menswear can also enhance their image as strong leaders.”
But he suggests not following fashion blindly.
“The key is to learn about your own strengths and weaknesses and the surrounding environment and choose clothes that can help you be more confident.”
Tina Wang, senior partner at consultancy Roland Berger China, says many factors overlap in the so-called female-male style. And the trend for women to be more spiritually and economically independent is expressed in the way they dress.