One Degree is all the Difference
An intimate tale of nostalgia, micro-seasonality and obsession
ESORA, housed within a heritage shophouse on 15 Mohamed Sultan Road, is an intimate 26-seater kappo-style establishment and the brainchild of Chef-owner Shigeru Koizumi. He spearheads the restaurant’s “one-degree” approach to kappo cuisine, along with a unique tea pairing programme that is the first of its kind in Singapore.
Similar to traditional kappo restaurants, a counter is all that separates guest from chef, allowing the servers and chefs alike to eagerly share stories behind each dish or ingredient. Yet, ESORA eschews all the rigid norms expected of a traditional Japanese fine dining establishment. Ushering in a fresh perspective on Japanese culinary culture, every aspect of ESORA’S dining experience is thoroughly considered and personally curated by Koizumi himself, from the food right down to the specially-sourced serveware from Japan. This “one-degree” approach to kappo cuisine, a term coined by Koizumi, reflects the extreme level of attention to detail adopted throughout ESORA, from kitchen to front-of-house.
Growing up in the mountainside town of Nasu in the Tochigi prefecture of Japan, Koizumi’s respect for nature was inspired by the grand landscape surrounding him. This affinity with nature nurtured an acute sensitivity to the integrity of the ingredients that he works with, driving his passion for incorporating microseasonal ingredients at their peak at ESORA.
His experiences at Tokyo’s acclaimed three-michelin starred Nihonryori Ryugin and Singapore’s two- Michelin starred Odette have also lent him a proficiency in modern cooking techniques. Koizumi merges his deep respect and knowledge of traditional Japanese cuisine together with new-found cooking techniques such as pacojets and liquid nitrogen to tease the best possible flavours out of each ingredient. The usage of modern techniques is applied in a way that ties back to the Japanese culinary principle of maintaining the integrity of an ingredient.
The “one-degree” philosophy shines through the most in his fanatical attention to detail when it comes to food. Koizumi believes that every preparation of a dish with its tweaks and refining is a process, not an end; that even the slightest change of just one degree in temperature can affect the outcome of the dish. This is best embodied in his approach to preparing his favourite dish, the humble dashi.
One of the most fundamental building blocks in Japanese cuisine, dashi is often overlooked by many for its simplicity. It is this simplicity, however, that draws Koizumi in. Treating the dish with reverence, he takes pride in building the rich savoury broth in layers with katsuobushi, kombu and a light dusting of yuzu zest, creating a perfect harmony of flavours.
Crafting a multi-course meal which will take diners through micro-seasonal ingredients that are given a fresh, modern Japanese take, each meal begins with a selection of snacks followed by Koizumi’s signature dashi. Served next is the amuse-bouche, where Koizumi offers his own modern interpretation on the monaka, which is traditionally served as a sweet dessert. Using Maison Mitteault foie gras torchon as the base for the filling, he creates intricate layers of flavours by adding myoga, Japanese mikan, roasted nuts and kaffir lime zest.
The rest of the meal is an orchestra of dishes reflecting Koizumi’s passion for uncovering the best of every ingredient prepared with an extreme level of attention to detail. One of the main standouts is the Omi Wagyu, served with white maitake, amanaga pepper and aged akazu. The highly desirable beef is sourced from the Okaki farm in the Shiga prefecture, an area known for producing one of Japan’s most respected brands of beef. It is perhaps the wagashi, or traditional Japanese confections served to round off the evening, that Koizumi’s playful touch comes through the most with nostalgic confections that are inspired by his favourite childhood snacks.