Chanel’s new Ruban fine jew­ellery col­lec­tion is rap­ture

#Legend - - SPARKLE -



CHANEL is said to have ar­rived in

Paris in 1907 sport­ing a loose blouse with large gath­ered bow at the neck, an el­e­gant laid-back style at odds with the tight-laced corsets and nipped-in waist­bands of the time. Chanel, it soon be­came ap­par­ent, had quite the ob­ses­sion for rib­bons and bows, and, more than 100 years later, that sig­na­ture iconic mo­tif still sits at the cen­tre of the Chanel aes­thetic, an in­trin­sic re­minder of the founder’s en­dur­ing style.

What was once fabric be­came the star of Chanel’s new Ruban fine jew­ellery col­lec­tion with bows ren­dered us­ing an as­sort­ment of the finest gem­stones. In its lat­est it­er­a­tion, the em­blem con­tin­ues to daz­zle, trans­formed this sea­son into be­witch­ing as­sets of quite an­other class; a col­lec­tion of di­a­monds set into white gold.

The new pieces un­fold in gen­tle scrolls and whim­si­cal waves that mimic the rib­bon in all its many guises. Pieces ex­hibit bows draped like fabric, wrapped, en­twined and knot­ted in loops, as fluid as wa­ter and as cap­ti­vat­ing as dew­drops caught glis­ten­ing at sun­rise.

“Adorn­ment, what a sci­ence! Beauty, what a weapon! Mod­esty, what el­e­gance!” So said Made­moi­selle Chanel in 1920. Clearly, the evolv­ing Ruban story em­bod­ies her sen­ti­ments. The cre­ations cap­ture all the imag­i­na­tion of haute cou­ture, deftly link­ing fash­ion with jew­els. Each un­mis­tak­able piece is sin­gu­lar in fo­cus, with sim­plic­ity key to its style. Bands of un­adorned plat­inum rings pay homage to the sleek moder­nity that has come to de­fine the house, es­tab­lished sea­son af­ter sea­son on the run­ways past and present, just as the much as those weaved into bows and dot­ted with di­a­monds.

Ev­ery item in the col­lec­tion evokes al­lur­ing un­der­stated beauty. Ex­am­ine, for a mo­ment, the mag­nif­i­cence of the Ruban bracelet. Set with two strands of glit­ter­ing jew­els side-by-side, the piece achieves the ap­pear­ance of a sim­ple rib­bon tied against the wrist while be­ing crafted from the world’s most lux­u­ri­ous stones. Ear­rings have all the flip­pancy of a quickly knot­ted sash yet ask that hair be swept back in their de­mand to be ad­mired. A del­i­cate neck­lace cir­cles the neck with shim­mers and begs a chic, shoul­der­less gown.

Of course, there is not a whis­per of cot­ton or cloth, vel­vet or satin in this col­lec­tion, but in the sub­lime white gold and di­a­mond rib­bon de­signs, in­deed in ev­ery knot, and twist and turn and fold of the bow, there is one sin­gu­lar un­mis­take­able thread: the essence, the un­mis­take­able spirit of its in­spi­ra­tion, the leg­end that is Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.

Clock­wise from top: A Ruban neck­lace, ear­rings, ring and ad­di­tional ear­rings, in 18k white gold and di­a­monds

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