SARAH HELLER is one of the lucky few to try the rare new “con­cept” re­lease from renowned Aus­tralian wine­maker Pen­folds: the g3. But does it live up to the hype?

#Legend - - DRINK -

blend each year – hung pen­du­lously in the air. The de­scrip­tions “the blend­ing of her­itage, tra­di­tion and dis­ci­pline”, “one of Pen­folds’ great­est wine re­leases” and “the ul­ti­mate wine trin­ity” added up to pure tan­ta­li­sa­tion.

To heighten the mys­tery sur­round­ing the re­lease, the event venue wasn’t even dis­closed ahead of time. Those of us not flown in from Lon­don, New York or beyond for the global re­lease were whisked to the pri­vate Liang Yi Mu­seum on Hol­ly­wood Road in a Mercedes-AMG S65. Mine had so­porific light jazz play­ing, as if cho­sen to set­tle the anx­i­ety brought on by Pen­folds’ global press em­bargo, a term one rarely hears in this era of in­stant grat­i­fi­ca­tion, pre- event hype and live-stream­ing. My Twit­ter fingers were pos­i­tively twitch­ing.

A dense, at­mo­spheric Pen­folds red suff used the space upon ar­rival, re­veal­ing ban­quet ta­bles lux­u­ri­antly en­crusted with vel­vety scar­let roses. As we sat down, Yat­tarna 2008 – taut, flinty and up­right, but not ema­ci­ated – was poured out of mag­num, fol­lowed by a smoky, some­what ret­i­cent Grange 2008 and an ex­otic, fruit-laden 2012, each one an­nounced with a blare of sound and imag­is­tic video mon­tage (in the per­fect

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