SARAH HELLER is one of the lucky few to try the rare new “concept” release from renowned Australian winemaker Penfolds: the g3. But does it live up to the hype?
blend each year – hung pendulously in the air. The descriptions “the blending of heritage, tradition and discipline”, “one of Penfolds’ greatest wine releases” and “the ultimate wine trinity” added up to pure tantalisation.
To heighten the mystery surrounding the release, the event venue wasn’t even disclosed ahead of time. Those of us not flown in from London, New York or beyond for the global release were whisked to the private Liang Yi Museum on Hollywood Road in a Mercedes-AMG S65. Mine had soporific light jazz playing, as if chosen to settle the anxiety brought on by Penfolds’ global press embargo, a term one rarely hears in this era of instant gratification, pre- event hype and live-streaming. My Twitter fingers were positively twitching.
A dense, atmospheric Penfolds red suff used the space upon arrival, revealing banquet tables luxuriantly encrusted with velvety scarlet roses. As we sat down, Yattarna 2008 – taut, flinty and upright, but not emaciated – was poured out of magnum, followed by a smoky, somewhat reticent Grange 2008 and an exotic, fruit-laden 2012, each one announced with a blare of sound and imagistic video montage (in the perfect