#Legend - - CONTENTS / JULY | AUGUST - Pho­tog­ra­phy /Chen Man Fas­fion Direc­tor/Kim Bui Kol­lar

Kim Bui Kol­lar records her thoughts on how Marc Ja­cobs has changed the global style land­scape through her in­ter­view with the de­signer

Though he needa lit­tle in the way of in­tro­duc­tions, it's no em­bel­lish­ment to say that MARC JA­COBS has changed the global style land­scape for­ever. KIM BUI KOL­LAR sts down for a chat in Shangai with the Amer­i­can fash­ion pow­er­house

MEGA. SU­PER. MAGIC. Th­ese are a few words I would use to de­scribe the au­tumn/win­ter 2018 Marc Ja­cobs col­lec­tion. The shapes, the colours and the pro­por­tions are all strong. Those words also ap­ply to the photo shoot we staged to present this col­lec­tion. With Marc Ja­cobs him­self present, we had famed pho­tog­ra­pher Chen Man be­hind the lens and three global Chi­nese cover girls: Xiaowen Ju, Emma Pei and Xiaox­ing Li. There was noth­ing small or in­dis­tinct about any­one in the room or their con­tri­bu­tions to fash­ion – in fact, Xiaowen was the first Chi­nese model to be a face for a Marc Ja­cobs cam­paign, so it was nice to be there as things came full cir­cle.

I sup­pose meet­ing Marc Ja­cobs at the age of 40 de­spite hav­ing fol­lowed his work since I was 12 is bet­ter late than never. Ja­cobs had a huge part in defi ning the new state of fash­ion in 1992, which sat­u­rated the magazine pages from US Vogue to ul­tra- cool pub­li­ca­tions like Sassy, long be­fore the in­ter­net and so­cial me­dia were taken for granted. The power of Ja­cobs reached all the way to a small sub­ur­ban town in South­ern Cal­i­for­nia, where I grew up. I still have a copy of the US Vogue ed­i­to­rial that was shot by Steven Meisel and styled by Grace Cod­ding­ton, fea­tur­ing Naomi Camp­bell, Kris­ten McMe­namy and Nadja Auer­mann in the “grunge” col­lec­tion that Ja­cobs de­signed for Perry El­lis (also his last for the brand).

Few mo­ments in fash­ion have caused such a re­ac­tion in the in­dus­try – and I hate to sound like a bro­ken record, but this was also be­fore so­cial me­dia, which would have made for such a dif­fer­ent busi­ness out­come for Perry El­lis. The kids would have been all over it. They would have shown the world how to wear it in their every­day lives, no mat­ter the city. This was dur­ing the era that Kurt Cobain and Nirvana were part of a defi ning sub­cul­ture. The kids spoke and the re­tail­ers ate it up. There had been noth­ing like it be­fore – and it was just so cool. There are few mo­ments like this in mod­ern fash­ion; Vete­ments, Alexan­der Mc­Queen, John Gal­liano and Miguel Adrover are just a hand­ful of the names in my life­time.

Ja­cobs is in Shang­hai to at­tend the HY Fash­ion Awards, where he will re­ceive the top hon­ours. (To give some con­text, Karl Lager­feld was last year's re­cip­i­ent.) This is Ja­cobs's sec­ond time to the city, but he's the fi rst to ad­mit that he hasn't seen much of it. Last time he was here, there was lit­tle free time due to the show preparatio­ns for Louis Vuit­ton and the press in­ter­views tak­ing place in the ho­tel. This time around, Ja­cobs is trav­el­ling with his fi­ancé, Char De­francesco – who I'm con­vinced is the defi ni­tion of “fun” – and his im­me­di­ate team. At fi rst glance, they all have var­i­ous aes­thet­ics and tastes, but col­lec­tively there's a nice feel­ing of ca­ma­raderie amongst the group in the dress­ing room where Ja­cobs and I chat. Out­side is our fash­ion shoot with three Chi­nese cover mod­els and pho­tog­ra­pher Chen Man's mas­sive team – there's a lot go­ing on.

In­ter­est­ingly, Ja­cobs hasn't seen much of Asia at all. This comes to me as bit of sur­prise; go­ing into the in­ter­view, I had a burn­ing ques­tion in my pocket re­gard­ing the de­signer's fi rst meet­ing with Bryan­boy. When I vis­ited Manila years ago, I was told by sev­eral peo­ple that Bryan­boy had pur­chased the most ex­pen­sive bag at

Louis Vuit­ton dur­ing one of Ja­cobs's vis­its. This pur­chase earned him a meet­ing with the cre­ative direc­tor, who then in­vited him to sit in the front row at his shows – I was ready to credit the en­tire birth of the fash­ion so­cial me­dia eco­sphere to Ja­cobs. How­ever, he quickly cor­rects me – he has, in fact, never been to Manila. He does love Bryan­boy, though, and has even named a bag after him.

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