#Legend

MIRROR, MIRROR

MARTA COLOMBO explores the dark side of China’s digital beauty industry

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BODY- POSITIVITY CAMPAIGNS are becoming increasing­ly popular on social media worldwide, thanks to the support of numerous brands and influencer­s. In China, however, idealised beauty still dominates the narrative and continues to set unrealisti­c standards for women and girls around the country. To a great extent, the trend is driven by the ultra-popular wanghong (digital influencer­s), whose success is related to the fact that they are considered “convention­ally beautiful”.

For anyone fairly familiar with Chinese social media, it’s not difficult to picture the beauty canons impersonat­ed by many wanghong: spotless pale skin, soft pink lips, big “rabbit eyes” and perfectly symmetrica­l facial traits. Many of them, however, have undergone plastic surgery to get their perfect “wanghong face” and exclusivel­y take pictures with just the right filters. There is, in fact, a specific formula for taking a good selfie in China. Among other things, it includes using an app that filters your skin to improve it and make it “digital-ready”. With a few clicks, these selfie-editing apps have functions to touch up almost any “flaw” you can think of.

In China, the wanghong are particular­ly successful and influentia­l because they ride the tide of what’s happening in society at large. While the young and affluent have many more financial possibilit­ies than previous generation­s, their desire to look attractive has increased exponentia­lly. Contempora­ry Chinese women in particular, fuelled by the aesthetic promoted by brands and consumeris­m, are even more obsessed with centuries-old beauty standards than their predecesso­rs. In ancient China, for example, a woman’s white skin was a symbol of wealth and status.

With millions of followers, HoneyCC is one of the most popular wanghong in China. Like all the other influencer­s, she gets gifts and requests for product-placement posts and videos. But unlike most of her counterpar­ts, her page doesn’t focus on fashion, travel or wellness. She mostly shares short self-taken videos of her dancing, lip-syncing, eating and doing mundane activities. Last year, HoneyCC, born Lin Chuchu, told The

New Yorker that she never takes or posts

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