Tee Time

HK Golfer - - Contents - By The Edi­tors

Glashütte Orig­i­nal is work­ing hard to bring a more con­tem­po­rary feel to its usual Ger­man de­sign.

FOR QUITE SOME YEARS AL­READY, GLASHÜTTE ORIG­I­NAL IS WORK­ING HARD TO BRING A MORE CON­TEM­PO­RARY FEEL TO ITS USUAL GER­MAN DE­SIGN. NEW COL­LEC­TIONS ARE BRING­ING A YOUNGER AND MORE MOD­ERN TASTE TO ITS TEUTONIC PIECES, FOR BASEL­WORLD 2018, WITH THE SE­NA­TOR EX­CEL­LENCE PERPETUAL CAL­EN­DAR LIMITED EDI­TION.

The lat­est ad­di­tion to the Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence fam­ily com­bines me­chan­i­cal beauty with a mod­ern, tech­ni­cal feel that was some­what ab­sent from the pre­vi­ous col­lec­tions. Glashütte Orig­i­nal in­tro­duced for Basel­world 2018 a new, open-worked limited edi­tion of its perpetual cal­en­dar. Bolder but still in line with the brand’s ex­pec­ta­tion, it is a re­fresh­ing nov­elty.

It is not the first time that Glashütte Orig­i­nal of­fers an open­worked watch. Other watches with such dec­o­ra­tion were usu­ally quite baroque and old-fash­ioned - curved skele­tonised bridges adorned with arabesques. Glashütte Orig­i­nal has made use of this tech­nique to im­ple­ment a fresh, mod­ern de­sign.

The Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence Perpetual Cal­en­dar has a 42mm case, with brushed and pol­ished sur­faces, as well as the same dis­play for the perpetual cal­en­dar - Panorama date at 4 o’clock, moon-phase at 8 o’clock, day-of-the­week, month and leap year at re­spec­tively 10, 2 and 12 o’clock. And fi­nally, cen­tral hands for the hours, min­utes and se­conds. What changes is the metal in which the case is crafted; here 18k white gold - usu­ally, the Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence col­lec­tion is only avail­able in steel or 18k red gold.

Then is the dial, in matte grey. It has been par­tially opened in the cen­tre and around the in­di­ca­tions to re­veal the main plate of the perpetual cal­en­dar mod­ule. This plate is dec­o­rated with an elab­o­rate guil­loche dec­o­ra­tion, crafted by hand in

“It is not the first time that Glashütte Orig­i­nal of­fers an open­worked watch. Other watches with such dec­o­ra­tion were usu­ally quite baroque and old-fash­ioned.”

the watch­maker’s own dial man­u­fac­tory in Pforzheim. This plate is par­tially opened to re­veal the in­ter­play of the cal­en­dar discs.

The Glashütte Orig­i­nal Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence Perpetual Cal­en­dar Limited Edi­tion is pow­ered by the in-house Cal­i­bre 36-02 au­to­matic move­ment, which is vis­i­ble through the sap­phire case back. Of­fer­ing an im­pres­sive 100 hours of power re­serve, it features 43 jew­els and os­cil­lates at 28,800vph. In true Ger­man style, the move­ment is beau­ti­fully dec­o­rated and features a Glashütte three-quar­ter plate with stripe fin­ish, bev­elled edges, pol­ished steel parts, and a skele­tonised ro­tor with 21ct gold os­cil­la­tion weight.

To com­plete this mod­ern look, the Glashütte Orig­i­nal Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence Perpetual Cal­en­dar Limited Edi­tion features sev­eral blue ac­cents that con­trast with the sil­ver and grey colours used all around - blue al­li­ga­tor strap, blued hands and blue minute mark­ers. This watch will be pro­duced in 100 pieces only.

Launched in 2015, the Glashütte Orig­i­nal Se­na­tor Cos­mopo­lite is per­haps the most com­pletely equipped travel watch on the mar­ket. Not only can it track 36 time-zones, in­clud­ing the 13 that dif­fer in half and quar­ter hours, but it also comes with a Day­light Sav­ings Time func­tion an es­o­teric yet nec­es­sary fea­ture that ought to ex­ist in any travel watch. And de­spite the sur­feit of in­for­ma­tion it can read, the watch re­tains a re­mark­ably min­i­mal­ist dial.

While it was pre­vi­ously avail­able only in white or red gold, with the com­men­su­rate price tags, Glashütte Orig­i­nal has just un­veiled the stain­less-steel ver­sion ahead at Basel­world 2018. The new Se­na­tor Cos­mopo­lite is de­cid­edly less for­mal in ap­pear­ance, per­haps even more func­tional, fea­tur­ing dark blue Ara­bic nu­mer­als in­stead of Ro­mans over a matte white lac­quered dial that also has a sim­pli­fied minute track.

The case re­mains the same 44mm in di­am­e­ter and 14mm in height. And so does the move­ment and func­tions. Lo­cal time is dis­played with the cen­tral hands while home time is in­di­cated in the sub­dial at 12 o’clock. A tiny aper­ture in the sub­dial shows the day or night at home while a power re­serve in­di­ca­tor charts the move­ment’s 72hour power re­serve.

The Se­na­tor Cos­mopo­lite in­cludes all of the world’s 36 time-zones, and each in­di­cated by the three-let­ter of­fi­cial IATA lo­ca­tion code that refers to the in­ter­na­tional air­port in the zone: ”BKK” for Bangkok and “PEK” for Bei­jing.

The matte grey dial has been par­tially opened in the cen­tre and around the in­di­ca­tions to re­veal the main plate of the perpetual cal­en­dar mod­ule

This Limited Edi­tion is pow­ered by the in­house Cal­i­bre 36-02 au­to­matic move­ment

The Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence Perpetual Cal­en­dar has a 42mm case, with brushed and pol­ished sur­faces

The Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence Perpetual Cal­en­dar Limited Edi­tion

The new Se­na­tor Cos­mopo­lite is de­cid­edly less for­mal in ap­pear­ance

Time-zones are in­di­cated by the three-let­ter of­fi­cial IATA lo­ca­tion code that refers to the in­ter­na­tional air­port in the zone

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Hong Kong

© PressReader. All rights reserved.