Fabulous Fusion

One of Asia's most revered Japanese chefs returns from hiatus with ZEST by Konishi, a sophisticated new restaurant inspired by his extensive travels and experience, says Nick Walton

Mitsuru Konishi’s Hong Kong restaurant, Zest by Konishi, is reviewed by Nick Walton

Mitsuru Konishi is a household name in many parts of Asia – especially if that house is filled with avid foodies. The Japanese chef has cooked at the likes of two Michelin-starred L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon in Tokyo, and Taillevent in Paris, where he was the historic restaurant’s first Japanese sous chef. Closer to home, Konishi is known for his bold yet elegant culinary style, which combines Japanese precision and French tradition, and which earned Hong Kong’s Wagyu Takumi (now Takumi by Daisuke Mori) two Michelin stars during his tenure.

After almost three years of musing behind the scenes as a consulting chef for Lai Sun Dining, Konishi returns with a Central eatery that’s every bit an extension of his own personality. Tucked away on On Lan Street, guests arrive on the 29th floor where an elegant and intimate lounge features Art Deco-esque accents in turquoise and powder blue, and a spacious terrace populated by rattan lounges.

However, the real show takes place down a narrow timber staircase that opens into the Dining Room, where Konishi explores his undeniable talents with playful flavour and texture combinations. Catering to just 38 guests, the restaurant is the perfect canvas on which Konishi presents his philosophy of seasonality and elevated tradition.

Our meal commences with freshly baked pain de campagne and brioche made by a local bakery to Konishi’s own exacting recipe, which is matched with house-churned butter topped with soy sauce powder, green tea extract and Spanish olive oil.

Three amuse bouches follow; heavenly soft sponge cake is topped with grilled Japanese summer sweet corn, corn puree, and savoury popcorn. In another curious mouthful, chi ayu, a seasonal Japanese moss-fed river fish, is encrusted with crispy rice, wrapped in shiso leaves, and emboldened with umeboshi, fermented and salted Japanese plum. Lastly, sweet Delaware grapes, crispy spring roll skin, and chicken liver are layered on delicate Galette Bretonne biscuits.

A true conversation piece, The Green Garden is Konishi’s brow furrower: the dish boasts 20 types of vegetables and herbs, including celery root, fennel jelly, olive crumble, crispy quinoa, edamame, green asparagus tips, fresh dill, marigold and mustard greens, as well as micro herbs sourced from organic farms in the New Territories. The flavours are bound by an earthy yet subtle injection of shiso pesto, a dash of citrus, and a drizzle of clear Australian romaine tomato extraction.

The next course couldn’t be more different. Konishi braises Australian abalone in sake and kombu (Japanese kelp) to create an al dente texture and enhanced flavour, before pairing it with boiled pearl barley, slowcooked Chinese cabbage, and abalone liver foam. Gone is the rubbery texture of the abalone, replaced instead by succulent flesh mellowed by the grain and spiked by the ginger-laced foam.

Konishi continues to play with texture in the first main dish, black-throated sea perch. The chef offsets the delicate white fish with semi-dried enoki wrapped in sautéed Chinese spinach, which tops a gooey walnut gyuhi, a mochi-like rice cake.

For something more substantial, lamb from the Pyrenees is roasted and presented with homemade eggplant caviar with touches of shallot and garlic. The lamb is pink and perfectly cooked, the plump meat balanced with a hint of heat and sweetness.

Our final dish is more straightforward but no less effective: homemade coconut sorbet counterbalances meringue and passion fruit cream, tamed by slices of mandarin and pink grapefruit and topped with edible flowers.

ZEST by Konishi tells the story of a chef’s own journey, with cuisine that showcases his learned precision and technique and playful, understated nature to perfection. The ninecourse degustation menu is priced from HK$1,380 (US$176) per person, with paired wine for an additional HK$780 (US$99) per person.

28F & 29F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong; zestbykonishihk.com