A Safe Haven
With one of the world’s best responses to the pandemic, many travellers are considering a holiday in New Zealand, says Robyn Tucker-Peck
From a new All-Blacks experience to exhilarating eco adventures, Robyn TuckerPeck rounds up the best of New Zealand
Elijah Wood, who famously played the hobbit Frodo Baggins in The Lord of the Rings trilogy and was on location in more than 150 destinations across the North and South island, was, like many of the cast and crew, dazzled by the land of the long white cloud. “There’s a real purity in New Zealand. It’s a unique place because it is so far away from the rest of the world. There is a sense of isolation and also being protected,” he said
The sense of remoteness and protection that Wood describes has become increasingly attractive during the pandemic, and New Zealand’s response to COVID-19 has been applauded by countries worldwide. Thanks to the country’s approach to the environment and sustainability, it’s not surprising to see their looking after of the land extended to protecting its people. Kaitiakitanga, which means guardianship and protection in Maori, is a way of managing the environment based on the Maori view of the world we live in. In Aotearoa New Zealand, an emerging name for the country, the Maori share a special connection with the land and sea. It’s a relationship founded on care, respect and an understanding that when nature thrives, we all blossom.
Those thinking of visiting New Zealand will also be reassured that the country was recently voted #2 on the list of the 10 safest countries in the world to visit (Iceland was number 1) on the Global Peace Index by the Institute for Economics & Peace, thanks to there being very little internal conflict or violence in the country.
A SECURE COVID RESPONSE
Considered to be the greatest public health emergency since the global flu pandemic a century ago, the New Zealand government acted quickly to protect the lives of New Zealanders, and it locked down early, closing the borders back in March and introducing self-isolation measures for anyone returning to the country. Believing that the ensuing economic shock would represent the largest global downturn since the Great Depression, its aim has always been to eliminate the virus.
First came the public health response, and making sure there was enough beds, PPE and tests before rolling out a COVID-19 tracer app. The New Zealand government also implemented necessary legal controls to find and stamp out the virus when it emerged, using test-traceisolate as key tools. A paid support system to remunerate employers for any employees who needed to self-isolate, meanwhile, encouraged Kiwis to stick to the rules.
The decision to close its borders and introduction of selfisolation at quarantine facilities for those still permitted to enter was key to its succefful covid response. DirectorGeneral of Health, Dr. Ashley Bloomfield, told reporters at the time: “We really want to make sure our border is watertight.”
TIME TO REBUILD
During the opening of the parliament last November, Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern’s message was one of rebuilding, asserting that New Zealand’s success in fighting the virus meant it is better positioned for recovery than many other countries. Before COVID-19, New Zealand’s largest export industry in terms of foreign exchange earnings was tourism, directly employing 8.4 per cent of New Zealand’s workforce. Rene de Monchy, interim chief executive of Tourism New Zealand, is eager to welcome back visitors when the virus is under control. “While our borders remain closed, we encourage you to keep your dream of a New Zealand holiday alive. We hope you know that when it’s deemed safe to do so, we are eagerly awaiting the day we can show international visitors some of our manaakitanga and Kiwi spirit.” He referenced “amazing new experiences” that have recently debuted, including interactive cultural heritage, tourism and education centre Manaea Footprints of Kupe in Northland, which tells the story of the first chapter of the human story in New Zealand. Another landmark opening is Auckland’s All-Blacks Experience, an interactive showcase where guests come face-to-face with a haka on a 4m screen and learn what it takes to become an All Black via a 45-minute tour.
Almost one-third of New Zealand’s land is designated as national park, reserve and heritage sites to preserve the country’s ecological heritage — a panorama of ancient forests and landforms, rare birds and creatures that have survived since prehistoric times. With ecotourism at the forefront of the country’s experience, from geysers and mud pools in the north to glaciers and indigenous forests in the south, the country is working hard to promote sustainable travel. The New Zealand Tourism Sustainability Commitment aims to see every tourism business committed to sustainability by 2025 via a set of 12 commitments including investment in sustainable practices and working towards a zero carbon economy.
SPOTTING RARE BREEDS
Just half an hour from Auckland lie the Waitakere Ranges, a mountain range home to wild black sand surf beaches and sub-tropical rainforest, where you’ll find the mighty kauri trees, among the most ancient species in the world. Endangered birds are slowly being introduced in the Waitakere like the tui, which has a diverse range of songs and calls like a parrot, and the kokako, which appears on the reverse side of the New Zealand $50 note. Dominated by the steep sides of the snow-capped southern alps, Fiordland National Park on the South Island, meanwhile, offers some of the country’s most stunning scenery, including the country’s three deepest lakes and one of its most esteemed attractions, Milford Sound, the only fiord accessible by road. It is home to Lady Bowen Falls and Stirling Falls, which stands 151m tall; canoeing and overnight boat trips are possible. Another don’tmiss are the Fox and Franz Josef glaciers on the south island’s west coast – take an ice or heli-hike – while boat trips around the Tasman glacier at the bottom of Mount Cook offer the opp to iceberg spot.
Some of the country’s flora and fauna are unique to New Zealand, like the yellow-eyed penguin, which breeds on the south and east coastlines of the South Island and the subantarctic Auckland Islands. Hector’s dolphin, the world’s smallest marine dolphin with a dorsal fin shaped like a Mickey Mouse ear, and Hooker’s sea lion, the world’s rarest sea lion, are only found in New Zealand waters.
New Zealanders have been called Kiwis since the nickname was given to them by Australian soldiers in the First World War after the Kiwi bird, the country’s unofficial national emblem. It’s a curious creature, as it can’t fly, has loose hair-like feathers and no tail. There are five species of Kiwis in New Zealand and due to their cultural significance to Maori and their knowledge of the bird, they are key stakeholders in Kiwi bird management. The bird is ubiquitous, and there’s even a National Kiwi Hatchery in Rotorua where you can hatch and name a chick and help save the national bird.
In the remote islands at the bottom of New Zealand lives the world’s oddest parrot, the kakapo. British zoologist Mark Carwardine once labelled kakapo, “the world’s largest, fattest, least-able-to-fly parrot. It’s as affectionate as a dog, as playful as a kitten and it can inflate itself with air to become the size and shape of a football.” The country’s Bird of the Year competition crowned the kakapo the winner in 2020. If you want to catch a rare glimpse of this quirky bird, tours from Stewart or Mason island are possible.
New Zealand was recently voted the second safest country in the world to visit after Iceland on the Global Peace Index
EMBRACING MAORI TRADITIONS
The Maori are the indigenous Polynesian people of New Zealand who arrived in several waves from 1320-1350. Traditional customs still play a big part in the lives of many modern Maori and are an intrinsic part of Kiwi culture for New Zealanders. Nothing arouses the passion of Kiwis like the haka, a traditional war dance commonly performed by the New Zealand All-Blacks rugby team as they go through their pre-game challenge. Equally, nothing chills like the spine-tingling emotion upon hearing a karakia (prayer for protection). Songs, poi dances, and stories have been handed down through generations to keep alive the many traditions of the Maori culture. Visit Rotorua, widely regarded as the cultural capital of NZ, and you can learn about Maori legends, try food cooked hangi style (in a pit cooked using heated rocks) and even stay overnight in the Tamaki Maori village in a marae, a traditional Maori meeting place.
Traditionally, Maori made their clothes and adornments from native plants, bird, and animals’ skins. There was a great variety of garments, including many kinds of cloaks. Clothing, adornments and even hair styles showed a lot about a person’s status, power, and prestige. Renata West, founder of Pacific Storytelling, says the feathers have great significance. “The use of feathers in Maori culture is largely due to birds being seen as a lofty and chief-like symbol, and plumes of particular birds are worn in the hair and the feathers of certain birds are used in the adornment of high-born people. The most prized of all the native birds is the Kiwi, whose feathers are very fine resembling fine hair or fur rather than a traditional feather, meaning that any garment made with a feather would need many more than a regular sized feather”.
Thanks to initiatives over recent decades to revitalise Maori language, art, and culture, its importance continues to grow from strength to strength. New Zealand’s renewed love of its original language te reo Maori, the language of the indigenous Maori people, is celebrated annually during Maori Language week. “It’s important to keep the language alive not just for Māori cultural reasons but also to maintain our unique national identity,” says Maori academic professor Rawinia Higgins.
For one week, all New Zealanders are encouraged to give te reo a go. Greet their whanau (family) with a cheerful kia ora (hello) or Morena! (good morning), order a kawhe (coffee) and listen to a waiata (song). The Maori music awards are also held this week, alongside workshops, lectures and book launches throughout the country to celebrate the country’s taonga, or treasure.
SPORTING PURSUITS
Familiar to most people who know New Zealand is their expertise on the world stage in rugby and it being the home of extreme sports (bungy jumping anyone?) but did you know that zorbing was invented there as well? Zorbing is a surreal ride from a hilltop to the valley bottom inside a giant plastic ball. Try it at the world’s first Zorbing centre in Rotorua, where you roll down Mount Ngongotaha: the mega track is the fastest, longest and steepest.
New Zealanders have been called Kiwis since the nickname was bestowed on them by Australian soldiers in the First World War
New Zealand is also a proud yachting nation, and Emirates Team New Zealand will be defending its Americas Cup title in a second generation AC75, blessed by Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei and christened Te Rehutai. The competition for the oldest trophy in international sport (it dates back to 1851) will be held this March in Auckland. Yachting enthusiasts can swing by the race village at the Viaduct Marina, and there’s also opportunities to watch the race from the Hauraki Gulf and Waitemata Harbour, or simply watch the competition online, as it will be streamed live on americascup.com, Youtube and Facebook.
WINING & DINING
From its iconic lamb, renowned for its tenderness and sweet flavour, to renowned vineyards in Marlborough, where three-quarters of the country’s wine is produced, quality food and drink have long been the lynchpins of New Zealand, and its fusion of quality produce and ethnic influences have enabled the Kiwi food identity to evolve. Food tourism is developing at a rapid rate with horopito (Māori pepper), pikopiko (edible fern fronds) and kawakawa (Māori bush basil) appearing on menus in many of New Zealand’s top restaurants and causing a stir with international culinary enthusiasts. Today, not only are the unique flavours of these wild plants adding extra spice to already world-renowned local produce, they are also firmly establishing a distinct New Zealand food identity. New Zealand’s famed Manuka honey from the nectar of the manuka tree is highly prized, and it’s used in everything from glazes for meat to baked goods. Auckland has a deliciously diverse dining scene, from Masu’s Japanese fine dining (try the black cod, or the crayfish spicy miso tacos) to lamb ribs, hapuka sliders and a sublime oyster bar at Depot Eatery.
International demand for New Zealand wine has surged over the past decade, with the total export value now reaching a record-breaking NZ $2 billion for the 12 months to October 2020, according to New Zealand Winegrowers. “This milestone reflects the appreciation that the world has for New Zealand wine, and reinforces our international reputation for distinct, premium and sustainable wines,” says chair of New Zealand Winegrowers Clive Jones. Best tipples? See box for more details.
Nothing arouses the passion of Kiwis like the haka, a traditional war dance commonly performed by the New Zealand All-Blacks