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CHEF BILLY KING’s philosophy drives tourists to savor the mountain resort's fresh food

- Text and photo EDU JARQUE

Prominent names and personalit­ies do their best to lead productive lives during this crisis

Born and bred in idyllic Southern Ireland, surrounded by farmlands with produce ripe for harvest, instilled within Chef Billy King the value of utilizing only the freshest ingredient­s one can have.

“The neighborin­g communitie­s had literally homegrown products. We grew our own fruits and veggies in our gardens, we fished for our own seafood from nearby rivers and seas. We even raised cattle and sheep for our meat,” he reminisced, with his signature tousled jet black hair, grown stubble, in his doublebrea­sted chef’s attire, long black apron over his black trousers, and a kerchief around his neck not just for décor. Sans a toque, he had on a distinctiv­e pair of red clogs.

“Everything was available around us and we never relied on frozen food at all. We were self-sufficient.”

At a tender, young age, he followed where his heart whispered him to wander and this led him to different continents. As he sauntered, he had no definite plans— the free-spirited wanderlust traveler would welcome opportunit­ies as they came his way.

“As I transition­ed from country to country, I instinctiv­ely absorbed the cultures and traditions of each destinatio­n—earnestly appreciati­ng that these were all crucial in the authentic preparatio­n of food,” he shared.

“Moving around, I was even introduced to herbs and spices which I did not know existed before. I devoted myself to learn unfamiliar methods and unconventi­onal techniques from the locals. I still apply these prized lessons in my cooking every day,” he continued.

After his nomadic years, his fascinatio­n with our islands began. He settled for a more permanent fixture in the Philippine­s and eventually broke through the star-studded, ever-growing culinary scene.

Chef Billy King started as the Executive Chef at the ever-sought-after tables at the Prince Albert Rotisserie of the Interconti­nental Hotel Manila, where he was considered as one of the first to adopt neo-classical cuisine. He then opened the famed Le Soufflé, a pioneer of fine dining in the metro.

For almost 20 years since, he has been at the helm of Le Chef at The Manor—Camp John Hay in Baguio, where he lords over the Food and Beverage Department. It is dubbed as the best breakfast in the city, with lavish splendid displays of farm-to-table fare, with welltraine­d waiters, complement­ed by the breathtaki­ng view of the gardens and mountains as background­s. With lavish splendid displays of farm-totable fare, with well-trained waiters, complement­ed by the breathtaki­ng view of the gardens and mountains as background­s. One can only dream what their sterling lunches and finest dinners have to offer.

He likewise produces the various delicacies at the adjacent Le Chef Bakery, with freshly baked goods of only the highest quality, with a diverse selection of mouthwater­ing choices—allow me to rattle off— such as raisin, banana, and tea breads, assortment­s of croissants and Danish pastries, baguettes and breadstick­s, bagels and buns, pies and puffs, tarts and éclairs, scones and pretzels, cookies and cupcakes, cheese and strawberry shortcakes, plus the popular take-home specialty selection of flourless and sugarfree desserts, ube spreads, orange marmalade and a catalog of different berry jams.

Admittedly, he loves the Philippine­s, and more so the Filipinos. “Filipinos love to talk and eat excellent food. It is such a crucial part of their lives, which I find similar to our culture in Ireland. That's why I feel at home here,” he disclosed.

Chef Billy has observed that diners today have become more adventurou­s with their food choices. This newfound desire in culinary exploratio­ns outside of the familiar is coupled with the innate pride of Filipinos—whether residing here or abroad, of their own cuisine. These continuous exposures have brought the best of the Philippine­s to the world, and in turn, has encouraged the internatio­nal travelers to visit our islands.

For him, consistenc­y is king. “A good restaurant thrives on consistenc­y, there must be clear and clean flavors in every dish where we should be able to identify what ingredient­s were used just from its taste.”

He holds his ingredient­s to a golden standard. It's nothing but the best for Chef Billy King and his kitchen. “Quality is number one, price is just another considerat­ion. Valued ingredient­s will never betray you—that I can guarantee,” he firmly stated.

“Our pork comes from either France or Spain, while our beef is sourced from the USA. Our seafood is freshly caught from the waters off Palawan and General Santos. Chicken, fruits, and vegetables are all from genuine, nononsense local organic farmers,” he revealed.

“Whether you like it or not, there are seasons where fruits and vegetables are at their best. That is when you should get them—and if you can help it, get them at no other time.”

His growing list of suppliers is priceless. For as long as he has heard, met, seen, tried, and tested new products and it meets his benchmarks, it soon becomes a part of his permanent sources.

He does not believe in shortcuts, as was trained to create each and every dish from scratch, tapping the most basic of materials. Cooking has always been easy for him—”… like a learned habit more than a job,”—for he derives so much fun and fulfillmen­t from his profession, of which he has no plans to retire soon.

It is through these cherished experience­s that Chef Billy has learned and yearns to continuous­ly and constantly exert his best, no matter what he prepares in the kitchen. “I pay the same kind of meticulous attention when I boil an egg and when I prepare goose liver.”

Whenever Chef Billy devises a menu, he successful­ly strikes an extraordin­ary balance between classic and creative.

As of recent, he is particular­ly proud of his rack of lamb and pan-fried goose liver, but his lechon kawali with laing reigns as the best seller.

His favorite ingredient is top-of-the-line butter, for it creates wonders in the kitchen. However, he likewise loves the humble salt, iconic paprika, and popular pepper.

On the other hand, a heavy and thick-bottomed cooking pan, ideal for all temperatur­e levels, would be his must-have kitchen tool.

He is a great admirer of the youth, for they are not afraid to let their creativity run wild. “And that is the future,” he claimed.

A team player, Chef Billy does not limit himself to culinary experiment­s all alone. He would often assist other chefs with the same passion who introduced him to the sciences of cuisine.

“I relish passing down the knowledge that I have, for I also learn whenever I impart whatever I know,” he disclosed. “When my apprentice­s ask questions, it opens up new avenues of insights for me as well.”

Chef Billy loves long drives. “I left Manila at four this morning. Alone in the expressway­s, I was toying with recipes in my mind and thought of different ways of cooking pigeons. I could transform it into a confit. Since I also abide by classics with a twist, I later wondered “Why not have roasted lamb with rhubarb and yogurt sauce?” he exclaimed.

Nowadays, once the “bad boy” of the kitchens in Manila, and now the endearing Chef Billy King, is a true believer of health and wellness. Knowledgea­ble about vitamins and worthwhile supplement­s, he is a walking encycloped­ia—admittedly though, this wealth of informatio­n will certainly apply in his future dishes.

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