Every One a Clas­sic

Patek Philippe pro­vides mem­o­rable up­dates to some of its great­est col­lec­tions

Prestige Hong Kong - Tic Talk - - CONTENTS -

Patek Philippe has built a rep­u­ta­tion on tra­di­tional craft and in­no­va­tion, and every year at Basel­world the brand un­veils a col­lec­tion of watches that push tech­ni­cal and de­sign bound­aries. The lat­est edi­tion was no dif­fer­ent, as The Grand Lady of Geneva in­tro­duced some new mod­els and re­vis­ited some clas­sics. Let’s start with the Nau­tilus. In­tro­duced in 1976, it was Patek’s first sports watch in steel. Its dis­tinc­tive shape – a bulging oc­tagon mea­sur­ing 42mm in di­am­e­ter and in­spired by a ship’s port­hole – was well ahead of its time. Since then the Nau­tilus has gone through many it­er­a­tions in terms of com­pli­ca­tions, size and ma­te­ri­als. Each new model quickly sold out. This year, Patek has added a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar

( ref 5740/ 1G- 001) to the col­lec­tion. This new Nau­tilus boasts an ul­tra- thin move­ment en­cased in white gold. At just 8.32mm, it is one of the thinnest per­pet­ual cal­en­dars Patek has ever made. While the com­pli­ca­tion is new, the watch bears all the sig­na­ture Nau­tilus de­tails loved by fans, such as the clas­sic blue dial with hor­i­zon­tal rib­bing, lu­mi­nous mark­ers and hands, and mix of brushed and pol­ished fin­ishes.

Adding a touch of colour is a new chrono­graph ( ref 5968A- 001) from the Aqua­naut col­lec­tion. Orig­i­nally re­leased in 1997 as the first Patek Philippe watch to be fit­ted with a rub­ber strap, the Aqua­naut is one of the most fa­mous watches of the 1990s with its con­tem­po­rary, sporty aes­thetic. The new chrono­graph sports a bright or­ange sec­ond hand and comes with a stan­dard black strap that can be re­placed by a bright or­ange ver­sion. Equipped with a self- wind­ing fly­back chrono­graph move­ment in a ro­bust 42.2mm stain­less steel case that is water re­sis­tant to 12 bar, this model is bound to ap­peal to a younger au­di­ence.

Patek Philippe re­leased its first an­nual cal­en­dar time­piece in 2010. Char­ac­terised by three aper­tures along an arc that tell the day, date and month, it was an in­stant hit. The line was then ex­tended in 2013 with two rose- gold mod­els. In 2018 Patek an­nounced that this peren­nial favourite would be re­placed with a sleeker- look­ing ver­sion in white gold ( ref 5205G- 013). The new watch comes in a 40mm case and an el­e­gant two- tone blue sun­burst dial, Dauphine hands and ap­plied white- gold hour mark­ers. Its con­tem­po­rary style is fur­ther un­der­scored by a beau­ti­ful moon- phase in­di­ca­tor at 6 o’clock.

The re­lease of the Cala­trava Pi­lot Travel Time in 2015 cre­ated a hot de­bate. Many thought it didn’t con­form to Patek’s

tra­di­tional de­sign par­a­digm, but col­lec­tors went af­ter it en­thu­si­as­ti­cally. Three years on, there’s a new ver­sion in rose gold ( ref 5524R- 001). The time­piece’s de­sign is still rooted in avi­a­tion and stands out due to a sec­ond time zone and a date dis­play for lo­cal time. The dial is no longer matt but fea­tures an al­lur­ing sun­ray brushed pat­tern in warm brown. The large Ara­bic hour nu­mer­als in white Su­per­lu­mi­nova with gold edges nicely com­ple­ment the brown dial and rose- gold case. Patek’s Travel Time watches en­joy an en­vi­able rep­u­ta­tion be­cause of their ease of use and leg­i­bil­ity, and this one is no ex­cep­tion.

An­other much- cov­eted clas­sic Patek time­piece is the Golden El­lipse. It first came out in 1968 fea­tur­ing a yel­low- gold case and a shim­mer­ing blue- gold dial. The bold el­lip­ti­cal case – a cross be­tween a cir­cle and a rec­tan­gle – rep­re­sented a unique com­bi­na­tion of sleek au­dac­ity and har­mony. It has since been crafted in other gold al­loys and di­als with other colours. To cel­e­brate its 50th birth­day, Patek en­listed the help of sev­eral of its rare hand­crafts spe­cial­ists to cre­ate a lim­ited- edi­tion se­ries ( ref 5738/ 50P- 001) of 100 an­niver­sary sets, each con­sist­ing of a plat­inum watch and match­ing cuff­links. The man­u­fac­ture also ex­tended its reg­u­lar col­lec­tion with a new grand- taille model ( ref 5738R- 001) in rose gold with a black dial.

Women have al­ways fig­ured promi­nently in Patek Philippe’s col­lec­tions, and one of the lat­est ladies’ watches to get an upgrade is the Aqua­naut Luce “Misty Blue” ( ref 5067A025). The watch’s face has been en­hanced with a new blue- grey dial fea­tur­ing a bezel il­lu­mi­nated with 46 flaw­less Top Wes­sel­ton di­a­monds. The dial’s em­bossed guil­loché mo­tif mir­rors the tex­ture of the rub­ber strap and comes with white Ara­bic nu­mer­als and a white minute track. Water re­sis­tant to 12 bar, this steel watch re­flects a con­tem­po­rary, chic yet sporty look.

An­other ladies’ watch get­ting a makeover is a man­u­ally wound chrono­graph. In 2009, Patek in­tro­duced a cush­ion- shaped chrono­graph for women, its first watch en­dowed with a to­tally new clas­sic chrono­graph that was en­tirely de­vel­oped in- house. The lat­est ver­sion ( ref 7150R/ 250R- 001) comes in a 38mm round case in­stead, in rose gold, and set with 72 round di­a­monds on the bezel and 27 more on the pin clasp. Its ex­cep­tional de­sign is rounded off by a pul­some­ter scale on the sil­ver dial, along­side fluted, curved strap lugs, push­ers with guil­loché faces and ap­plied Breguet nu­mer­als.

In ad­di­tion to a fresh it­er­a­tion of the Cala­trava Pi­lot Travel Time for men in warm rose gold, Patek also un­veiled its first Pi­lot Travel Time model for women ( ref 7234R- 001). Pow­ered by a selfwind­ing move­ment, it is equipped with a use­ful dual- time func­tion. This el­e­gant watch shows off a re­fined 37.5mm rose- gold case and a choco­late- brown dial dec­o­rated with vintage touches. It’s the per­fect choice for the glo­be­trot­ting woman.

Women have al­ways fig­ured promi­nently in Patek Philippe’s col­lec­tions

FROM LEFT: AQUA­NAUT 5067A; CALA­TRAVA PI­LOT 7234R; GOLDEN EL­LIPSE 5738R; WOMEN’S CHRONO­GRAPH 7150R

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