Always more than merely modish, the J12 has evolved into a properly serious timepiece

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the unveiling of the J12, Chanel’s wildly popular dive- style watch in black or white ceramic that can be seen adorning the wrists of fashionable females around the world. So what better way for the maison to celebrate this milestone than by giving it a major upgrade?

Although this 38mm three- hander closely resembles its predecessors, within its case beats an entirely new heart. Out has gone the old ETA- sourced calibre, which was good for some 40 hours of power, and in its place is a movement from the recently established Swiss manufacturer Kenissi, which not only supplies Tudor with high- performance calibres but also has close ties with Chanel through the latter’s 20 percent stake. The new 12.1 movement, which is COSC- certified, very nicely finished and visible through a caseback crystal, offers a more than respectable power reserve of 70 hours and, in keeping with the J12’ s more sporting mien, the watch’s 20- bar water resistance means properly professional marine capability.

Otherwise, as we’ve said, the 2019 J12 is pretty much as before, with case and bracelet in highly polished ceramic and, as one would expect from a house that’s famous for its lacquer beauty boxes, an exquisitely lacquered dial with luminous Arabic numerals that, for this major internal upgrade, have been slightly updated; as before, the date window is located between 4 and 5 o’clock.

If the J12 has always been far more than a pretty face, Chanel’s latest upgrades have elevated this latest iteration of its contemporary classic way beyond the merely modish. In fact, this always elegant timepiece now deserves to be taken very seriously indeed.