BOR­ROWED TIME

Vacheron Con­stantin com­mem­o­rates one of its pi­o­neer­ing au­to­matic watches with a swanky new Fiftysix col­lec­tion

Prestige Hong Kong - - SIHH -

VACHERON CON­STANTIN’S STO­RIED her­itage goes back more than two cen­turies, but its pres­ence in the world of haute hor­logerie would be im­pos­si­ble were it not for con­stant pro­gres­sion. In the words of CEO Louis Ferla, “If you don’t in­no­vate while the world pro­gresses, you’ll wake up one day and ev­ery­body’s ahead of you.”

In­deed, the brand show­cases im­pres­sive of­fer­ings year af­ter year, from the award­win­ning Les Cabinotiers Ce­les­tia As­tro­nom­i­cal Grand Com­pli­ca­tion of 2017, an ul­tra­com­plex watch with a slew of com­pli­ca­tions, to this year’s breath­tak­ing Métiers d’Art

Les Aérostiers. The lat­ter, which dis­plays in­tri­cately hand-en­graved and mi­crosculpted gold hot air bal­loons against a translu­cent plique à jour enamel back­ground, pays trib­ute to a late-18th-cen­tury at­tempt at hu­man flight.

A more strate­gic in­no­va­tion this year comes in the form of the Fiftysix col­lec­tion, which ref­er­ences one of Vacheron Con­stantin’s first au­to­matic watches, the Ref. 6073 of 1956, and in­cludes a new en­try-level model. The Fiftysix Self-Wind­ing is pow­ered by the new

1326 au­to­matic cal­i­bre with Côtes de Genève fin­ish­ing, and in en­try-level steel of­fers an af­ford­able gate­way to the brand.

The Fiftysix Com­plete Cal­en­dar lies at the other end of the price spec­trum, show­cas­ing a triple cal­en­dar lay­out with a clas­sic de­sign. It’s driven by the pro­pri­etary 2460QCL/1 cal­i­bre, with a moonphase func­tion that’s ad­justable ev­ery 122 years. The day and month are vis­i­ble via two aper­tures, with the date in­di­cated by a tick­ing blue hand. A moon disc lies at 6 o’clock: a blue night sky il­lu­mi­nated by a gold moon (pink gold for the gold ver­sion, or white gold for the steel).

Round­ing off the col­lec­tion is the Fiftysix Day-Date, which uses the new self-wind­ing 2475 SC/2 cal­i­bre, an in-house move­ment equipped with a stop-sec­onds mech­a­nism. The watch is dec­o­rated with two snailed coun­ters at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, in­di­cat­ing the day of the week and date, re­spec­tively. Also vis­i­ble on the opa­line sun­burst dial is the power-re­serve dis­play at 6 o’clock.

Al­though all mod­els are driven by dif­fer­ent cal­i­bres, they share the same 22k pink-gold os­cil­lat­ing weight that’s dec­o­rated with a Mal­tese-cross ap­plique. Each is of­fered in pinkgold or steel vari­ants

CLOCK­WISE FROM TOP LEFT: VACHERON CON­STANTIN MÉTIERS D’ART LES AÉROSTIERS; FIFTYSIX COM­PLETE CAL­EN­DAR; FIFTYSIX DAY-DATE

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