GENDER FLUID
A distinctly masculine aesthetic takes a much-loved Chanel women’s timepiece into dazzling, innovative new territory
AMONG ITS many unforgettable contributions to the world of fashion, for more than a century the house of Chanel has been acclaimed for its uncanny ability to take elements more typically associated with the masculine wardrobe and blend them seamlessly into couture creations for women. With the advent of the new Boy∙Friend series of timepieces unveiled at Baselworld this year, the storied French maison demonstrates that this expertise also extends to the world of fine horology.
The Boy∙Friend is a masculine twist on the most classic of all Chanel timepieces, the Première. The house’s first feminine watch creation, the Première is instantly recognisable for its emblematic octagonal shape, which pays tribute both to a Chanel icon, the No 5 perfume bottle, and to Place Vendôme, the elegant Parisian square that the house calls home. With its sharp, restrained, refined look, the piece combines classic Chanel styling with a bold, contemporary appeal.
With the Boy∙Friend line, that appeal is given a new dimension with daring masculine styling that rejects the stereotypical codes of women’s watchmaking. Among the new range of watches, the stylish, pared-down aesthetic is perhaps best exemplified by the Boy∙Friend Skeleton. Its case and bezel come in cool, sophisticated beige gold, accompanied by a beige gold crown with onyx cabochon, and beige gold-plated hands. As the name of the watch suggests, these elements frame a dial that has been openworked to reveal the new Calibre 3 movement inside. And what a movement it is: three years in the making, Chanel’s third in-house calibre takes the form of a collection of floating, interlinked circles. A masterpiece of visual depth, its moving parts are foregrounded by the decision to move the bridges to the back. The piece is offset perfectly by a shiny black alligator strap with a beige-gold ardillon buckle. The Boy∙Friend Skeleton is also available in a version with the bezel adorned with 66 sparkling brilliantcut diamonds.