CHEF
Chef Virgilio Martinez is bringing Peruvian flavours to Hong Kong with the arrival of Ichu at H Queen’s. alice franklin finds out what’s on the menu
Virgilio Martinez
THINK OF PERU. What goes through your mind – Machu Picchu and Inca ruins? Tourist hotspots Lima and Cusco? Hollywood heart-throb Indiana Jones? Or are you one of the growing number of people who find themselves led by their stomachs, conjuring up images of the freshest ceviche and most fragrant lomo saltado, instead?
Culinary traditions in Peru run as deep as anywhere else you might imagine, but it wasn’t until recently that the rest of the world began paying attention to what was happening foodwise in this South American republic. We’d hazard a guess that one reason for its growing popularity is Virgilio Martinez, chef/owner of Lima’s Central restaurant and a champion of Peruvian produce.
At Central – which debuted on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2013 and currently sits sixth in the 2018 edition – Martinez and his wife Pia have built a gastronomic temple in honour of their local cuisine, drawing inspiration from the ecosystems and immensely diverse habitats of the country to create menus that amaze diners who flock to grab a seat at the restaurant’s tables. The couple have opened a handful of other more casual spots globally and, now, they’ve made their way to Hong Kong.
Ichu Peru is the latest restaurant to arrive at the arts-focused H Queen’s (Arbor and Écriture have already opened on the 25th and 26th floor, respectively), and will have Martinez’s long-time kitchen collaborator Chef Sang Jeong at the helm.
“Seven months ago, we sent three chefs from Lima [to] Hong Kong, and they will be cooking there. Chef Sang used to be one of my right hands, and he’ll be the one who is leading the restaurant,” Martinez tells me. “I have to trust my people, I trust my team.
“I’ve been working at Central with Virgilio for the last three years and I’m very excited to lead the team for Ichu,” Sang says. As for what he wants to bring to the already saturated Hong Kong dining scene, the chef explains that he’s on the hunt for ways “to express the tradition and melting pot of influences that shape Peruvian gastronomy, to create authentic flavours and
comforting dishes that showcase the country’s diverse geography from the land to the sea.”
While Central’s mission sounds somewhat similar to Sang’s hopes for Ichu, Martinez is adamant that the new Hong Kong eatery (which is set to open midAugust) is not simply a transplant of its Peruvian sibling. “Central is on the fine-dining side of things,” Martinez explains. “When we decided to open in Hong Kong, it was important to us that it was something casual, that it was traditional and modern at the same time. The Ichu concept is all about being very comfortable, in a family-style setting.
“Of course, it will still be quite elegant and it has to be beautiful. But, in the same way I like beautiful food – I like design and art – it needs to be easy to understand. It might be the first time people are trying Peruvian food, so we need to go easy with it. What we do at Central is different; at Ichu we will start with the basics and go from there.”
Yes, the dining experience may be altogether more casual at
Ichu, but the focus on premium ingredients that showcase the country’s impressively varied altitudes and terrains remains unchanged. Martinez and his team spend many months sourcing new ingredients in Peru throughout the year, visiting areas to unearth the best of what they have to offer and figuring out how to translate tastes into a dish that tells the unique story of each region.
“IT MIGHT BE THE FIRST TIME PEOPLE ARE TRYING PERUVIAN FOOD, SO WE NEED TO GO EASY”
At Central, the full 17-course tasting menu is split to deliver an eating experience that mimics the varying altitudes of Peru – with dishes aptly named Colours of Amazonia, Green Highlands and Andean Plateau all in the mix.
Each plate is accompanied by information on the elevation of its ingredients, to hammer home the astonishing terrain of the country. Ichu will be less inclined to floor its diners with the jaw-dropping plates Central is known for, but the celebration of diversity is still very much on the cards. It’s something Martinez and Sang qualify as one of the most important aspects of the restaurant – sharing a version of Peru that many people are unaware even exists.
So, what ingredients and dishes can you expect to see when you visit the new space in H Queen’s? “Peruvian ingredients are quite global,” says Martinez. “We produce a huge selection of root vegetables, and a lot of corn and potato and tomatoes. You also need excellent seafood and fish, and in Hong Kong it’s amazing.
“We only need a few Peruvian ingredients which are key, like the hot chilli peppers, but
of course in China there’s a huge amount of peppers,” he adds, laughing.
What happens, I ask, when you can’t find the appropriate ingredients on this side of the world? “Peruvian food is also based on adaptation and influences and diversity – diversity of ingredients and creativity. This is the DNA of what we do,” Martinez contends. “Actually, we’ve had a strong influence of Chinese cuisine in Peru too. It’s another way to connect to influences we’ve had before. It’s very common to see Chinese produce – for us, it’s quite normal to see ginger, coriander, pepper and things like that.”
Sang agrees, citing a shared profile of specific flavours between the two regions, before adding, “Growing up in Korea, I was naturally familiar with Asian flavours, but the foundation of my cooking is Peruvian. Our vision really is to bring people together to enjoy authentic Peruvian fare.”
I ask which of Ichu’s dishes Sang would recommend to someone new to the flavours of the country, who might benefit from a softer introduction to the cuisine rather than a full leap into the unknown. “One of the things Ichu’s menu will include is several varieties of ceviche; this dish showcases the freshest local produce and represents the simplicity that is central to Peruvian cuisine.”
Martinez immediately concurs: “You must take the ceviche, the raw seafood. Ceviche is the soul of Lima.” There you have it.