TRAVEL
ANISHA SHAH sets off on a journey across the charming hamlets and magnificent fjords of Western Norway
Head for the fjords
WITH ITS PLEASING flow of seasons, strikingly diverse terrain and astonishing range of wilderness activities, Western Norway is a magnet for adventurers.
Here, jagged, snow-crested peaks plunge into deep, narrow blue inlets; towering green mountains surround beachside fishing villages; and thousands of remote isles emerge, on approach, from a watery horizon.
This dramatic landscape finds its counterpoint in calmness; in alliance with the awe-inspiring mountain backdrop, a profound sense of Zen abides.
Bergen, the cultural capital of Norway, is the gateway to the fjords and easily navigable on foot. Bordered by seven mountains and hugging the coastline of Sognefjord, the country’s longest and deepest fjord, the city is a treat for the senses. From inhaling the cool mountain air on a hike past picturesque cabins to taking the funicular up Mount Floyen and sampling fresh seafood at the Unesco-listed Hanseatic Wharf, there’s plenty to tempt the visitor to tarry awhile.
After an idyllic introduction to Norway, it’s time for an expedition into the fjords. Several maritime routes offer visitors varying degrees of duration, remoteness and challenge. Whether it’s hiking, climbing, skiing, paddleboarding, kayaking or simply finding a tranquil guest house on a tiny islet for a relaxing escape, the fjords offer something for everyone.
The network of inlets zigzags deep inland, funnelling out to the Norwegian and North Seas. It can be traversed in all manner of craft, from large ferries to tiny boats. The fjords invite the sort of photography that induces wanderlust – every angle reveals a brochure cover.
Venturing to Norway’s westernmost islands of Solund, Bulandet and Vaerlandet involves hopping aboard a postal boat. Time soon gives way to waves, winds and wild nature. Stopping en route at minuscule isles with few inhabitants offers a glimpse into the real lives of island folk.
Unsurprisingly, given Norway’s Viking history, a sense of resilience, in its truest form, prevails.
The demands of life, however, on Solund’s more than 1,700 islands, islets and skerries are plain to see among the locals. One weathered resident outlines his life alone on a tiny islet. He unexpectedly describes the region as anything but isolated, with a strong sense of community and an even stronger survival skill set. Taking ferocious pride in his ability to survive on his own, he insists young people have much to gain from visiting the fjord islands and understanding their heritage.
One gets a powerful sense of being on the edge of a vast and rugged wilderness, deliciously disorientating and free. Untouched coastlines teem with white-tailed eagles, seals and otters.
A quick pit stop at Gasvaer island, far out at sea, entices visitors to linger, as host Anne Marie serves home-made crepes and coffee, offering a tour of her outpost and character-filled guest lodging.
Continue north to the Bulandet archipelago, where six bridges and a virtually car-free 5km road offer a sanctuary for those wanting to stretch their legs with an easy stroll or bike ride. It’s a gentle romp past rolling hills, viewpoints and modern-art installations that dot the landscape – and if you want to ride out and walk back you can leave the bike by the side of the road and the hire company will collect it later.
From here, it’s a ferry, express boat and bus to Kalvag on the island of Froya, the southern entrance to Norway’s sixth-longest fjord, Nordfjord.
Waking up to the sounds of Kalvag fishing village is sheer bliss. Roomy accommodations overlook the pristine inlet, backed by hills with hiking trails. For more privacy, luxury waterfront houses are available for rent. Charming narrow streets are fringed by old wharf buildings that are architecturally stunning.
A maritime theme permeates village life, as the North Sea stretches to the west. Fishing enthusiasts can enjoy their fill, as the waters are loaded with sea life. This was once the location of a large fishery and a production post for cod-liver oil and salt herring. Hike up the surrounding hills along well-maintained tracks for panoramic views across the region’s hamlets and waters.
Back at sea level, Knutholmen Restaurant is a fine place to eat after the morning’s exertions. A lunchtime fiskesuppe (fish soup) is thick, creamy and luxurious on the palate. Evening meals are celebrations on the scenic waterfront, with sumptuous fresh fish, seafood and local game paired with wine and Norwegian beer.
White sandy beaches and crystalline waters lie just an hour away. Grotlesanden beach is a secluded haven. A few homes pepper the foothills of the mountains that rise above pristine shallow waters, where kayaking and paddleboarding are a must.
The Nordfjord mountains cradle a number of glaciers whose summer meltwaters feed lakes, rivers and waterfalls.
When it’s not snowing, there are green grasslands, berries, fruit and running glacial water. Inner Nordfjord is home to Jostedalsbreen, the largest glacier in mainland Europe. Shuttle carts known as troll cars ferry visitors up for guided glacier hikes. Boat safaris venture in front of the glacier in the dramatic Lodalen Valley, while salmon fishing and horse riding are other options for enjoying this untamed wilderness.
Loen Skylift is a breathtaking aerial tramway that ascends Mount Hoven where, at more than 1,000 metres above sea level, there are hiking trails for all abilities – and the Via Ferrata Loen welcomes serious adventurers. To take this skywalk, which incorporates a 120-metre-long suspension bridge over a canyon, is to fully appreciate the crisp mountain air and hair-raising topography of crests and drops, where every turn offers picture-postcard views.
The glass-fronted suspended Hoven Restaurant is a luxurious highlight. Gourmet dishes of locally sourced ingredients are enjoyed against a backdrop of vistas across glaciers, mountains and navy-blue fjords.
One of the most scenic drives in the world begins at Loen, along the Gaularfjellet route, one of 18 National Scenic Routes. Majestic landscapes unfold as the winding road meanders across steep mountainsides, hugging spectacular coastlines and bays.
The “art” village of Balestrand, with its wonderful light, is a worthy finale. The historic family-run Kviknes Hotel, positioned on the waterfront, is straight out of an 18th-century painting. The still, misty waters of Sognefjord make for an ethereal scene. The Elysian vision evolves with the hours, maturing through salmon sunrises, bright blue skies and dusky pink sunsets.
Thrill junkies find their element in speedboat tours, splicing into the waters for a fjord-level view of encircling lofty peaks and hidden waterfalls. Balestrand offers a heritage walk, best completed at Ciderhuset where, after explication of the cider-making process, a cider tasting is accompanied by a delicious home-made meal.
Norway’s fjords offer true escapism. In winter, they wow with the greatest gift of all: the dancing siren of the night skies, the aurora borealis. To witness green and pink floating flares illuminating this land of water, wind and wildlife is a travel memory of a lifetime.
TO TAKE THE SKYWALK IS TO FULLY APPRECIATE THE CRISP MOUNTAIN AIR AND HAIR-RAISING TOPOGRAPHY OF CRESTS AND DROPS