25 Fabulous Fashionable Years
Barney Cheng celebrates his silver anniversary this month. The beloved fashion designer tells p.ramakrishnan what it’s like to go from taking apart his mother’s dresses to creating couture gowns
SURVIVING AND THRIVING – 25 years in an industry that’s constantly looking for the new and shedding the old is in many ways a remarkable achievement. So it goes without saying that we had to mark this occasion for one of Hong Kong’s favourite fashion designers, Barney Cheng, with some fanfare.
For the uninitiated, Hong Kong– born Barney Cheng Siu-leung studied at London’s Royal College of Art, followed by Parsons Paris and eventually the University of Waterloo in Canada. In 1993, three years after “coming back home – because no matter where you go, Hong Kong is home”, Cheng won the Hong Kong Trade Development Council’s Young Fashion Designer’s Contest for his design studio Yenrabi.
His achievements during the past few decades are too many to list (and yet we have – check out the timeline on the following pages). Unfailingly popular, Cheng’s sense of style is matched only by his sense of humour. Whether donned by celebrities from the East or West (Michelle Yeoh, Neve Campbell, Maggie Cheung and Debbie Harry are among those who’ve worn his gowns), socialites or brides at extravagant weddings, his couture can be seen swanning in and out of grandiose affairs around the globe.
To top it off, there’s his exquisite jewellery, exotic-skin accessories, uniforms for major companies, tailored menswear, couture for royal, political and powerful families around the
world – plus the spate of awards, honours and trophies that he’s collected. Barney Cheng is indeed a fashion force to be reckoned with.
When you started 25 years ago, did you envision you would be where you are now?
Yes, and no. It all started so naturally. I hated the fact that my mom would complain after coming back from an event, “I was wearing this dress and this so-and-so’s daughter wore the same thing and she looks 10 times better than I did in the dress.” Damn it, if you’re going to a glamorous event, you’re supposed to enjoy yourself – so why would you have to always be comparing yourself to other people? And then to have a clashing outfit, with someone who’s younger and prettier! I just want to make women feel special and happy. And I’m happy that I’m able to do that now with Barney Cheng couture.
You’ve mentioned your mother was your first muse.
Yes, because my mom used to be a fashion hound. It was from back in the ’70s, and she was buying from teeny-tiny stores at the bottom of The Peninsula. Every time she wore stuff from there, I was like, “Wow, Mom, you look awesome.” They weren’t brands, but clothes that were made to fit just right on
“I DON’T WANT TO COMPARE MYSELF TO THOSE AROUND ME – I WANT TO COMPARE MYSELF TO THE BEST AROUND THE GLOBE”
her body. She used to be a size two, and then when we emigrated to Canada and she had no social engagements, she ballooned to a size 10 within eight months!
And she was depressed – she had all these designer dresses, but couldn’t wear them. I remember she had this beaded Armani strapless gown, and I’d just take her things, cut them open and try very successfully to put them back together.
And that’s basically how I learned my trade. It was at the expense of my mom’s wardrobe! Whatever she bought, I’d make sure she could fit in it well. I’d deconstruct it. I did take some courses in Canada, but they were so useless; it took a whole semester to learn how to do a shirt collar.
Who is the Barney Cheng muse now?
First of all, I don’t think my style is for everyone. But the ones who’ve been sticking with me, they’re pretty loyal. A lot of them I can’t talk about. They say, “Don’t use my name, you know I’m so-and-so’s daughter, or business or political heir of such-and-such family.” My muse now is whoever’s coming through that door – that’s the privilege of doing one-off couture pieces.
One of your fans – Celina Jade – said you’re an international designer based in Hong Kong. Are you familiar with your contemporaries or competition in the city?
I don’t want to compare myself to just workers next to me, I want to compare myself to the best around the globe. And so far, time has proven that I might not be a ready-towear designer, but I’m definitely a very good couturier.
My clients buy from the big European fashion houses and they buy from me. They’re regular Chanel couture clients, and yet they still come here. Do you know the price difference? It’s obvious. Chanel is 10 times more expensive than me. But then, why are you still my client? Because I do what couturiers do. I make clients feel good. I’m happy that I’m successful that way. I’m not a household name – but I don’t need to be. At the end of the day, paying the bills is important, being famous and in debt is not!