DISCOVERY
Ones to watch
To call Anaïs Mak the bright young light of Hong Kong fashion would not be an overstatement. She’s been a beacon of hope for those of us fashion editors and journalists who’ve seen her label Anaïs Jourden (a recent rebranding, previously named Jourden) go from strength to strength over the last few years, consistently putting Hong Kong on the fashion map. Since starting the label six years ago, the Studio Berçot graduate has made a signature of clever proportions, subversive femininity and beautiful fabrics with clothes “intended for women of all different ages, lifestyles and locations”. Some of the most exciting moments of her journey include being nominated a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2015, and taking her presentations to Paris Fashion Week, opening up a whole new audience. So why did the designer choose fashion? As a child she was introverted — “not good with words”, as she puts it — but had a head full of ideas and would dress up in random vintage items or pieces that she’d made. “I’ve always been interested in clothes,” Mak explains. “I came from a family where my mum was also interested in dressing up and always reading Vogue, so I was exposed to it at a young age. “That being said, I had doubts. I thought it was maybe just a passion that every girl had, and I didn’t realise I could take up the creation part of the industry. At one point, I realised that clothes are what gave me the most emotions, and it’s the way I feel the most comfortable expressing myself.” At its core, Anaïs Jourden is about feminine aspirations of “who and what they want to be and how they’re attracted to things”. Disciplined silhouettes with lush textures, a take on the notion of dressing up “that’s more about twisting the codes of the classic feminine look than breaking them”. There’s embroidery, smocking, ruffles, gatherings and pleating — a lot of traditionally feminine elements, but put into a new context. She starts new collections based on feedback about past ones that women want more of. The autumn/winter 2018 collection is dark and romantic, taking her style into “more subversive territories” by twisting a classic ladies-who-lunch aesthetic with fetishistic touches. This year, Anaïs Jourden was listed on the official Paris Fashion Week show calendar for the first time — an honour that very few in Asia can claim. “A dream-come-true moment,” Mak recalls. “It means a lot to me as a validation and recognition for [all my] efforts, which opens up a wider discourse. Also last year we were emotional, saying goodbye to the legendary Colette Paris store with a pop-up installation ... the journey has always been full of both nerve-racking and heart-throbbing moments!”