DINING Hong Kong’s best Cantonese cuisine

DINERS IN HONG KONG CAN FEAST ON ALL MANNER OF INTERNATIONAL CUISINES, BUT ITS CANTONESE FARE IS ARGUABLY THE BEST IN THE WORLD. JAMES CARVER AND SAMMY HEUNG GET TO KNOW THE FRAGRANT HARBOUR’S FINEST FROM THE CHEFS WHO PREPARE IT

With the recent release of a global Michelin guide devoted entirely to Cantonese cuisine – the first publication by the famed foodies’ bible, in fact, that’s dedicated to a single school of cookery – we decided it was high time for us to revisit a handful of Hong Kong’s dining institutions that have elevated the food of southeast China to a fine art.

Renovated last year to resemble an exquisite jade jewellery box, the Cantonese eatery at InterContinental Hong Kong has earned two Michelin stars for five consecutive years and five stars from the Forbes Travel Guide for three consecutive years. The man behind its celebrated dishes is Lau Yiu Fai, who’s been with the restaurant since 1984.

“Due to our proximity the sea, chefs cooking Cantonese cuisine have access to the freshest seafood, which requires us to reveal the uniqueness of the ingredients and a sense of spontaneity,” says the executive chef. “It’s not enough to just follow recipes; we need to show our personality.”

To do so, Lau adds layers of taste and texture. “For instance, to enhance the crispiness and succulence of our Peking duck, I created two new sauces: osmanthus plum and black garlic chili. We also serve six garnishes: green papaya, cucumber, red chili, pineapple, pomelo and spring onion. It caters to the tastes of both younger and older customers.”

Indeed, being a specialist in Cantonese cuisine doesn’t limit Lau to local ingredients. “I once travelled to the foot of Sakurajima in Kagoshima to find the radish for our turnip cake and a wet market in South Korea to search for seafood for our new dishes,” he says.

And while innovation plays a big role in the menu, traditional dishes are the reason Yan Toh Heen is hailed as one of the world’s finest Chinese restaurants. “After more than 30 years, most of all we want to continue to delight food lovers with our cuisine, service, ambience and spectacular harbour views,” Lau says. “My goal is to earn three Michelin stars, and my motto is: Don’t believe in luck and fate, but cause and effect.”