ROGER DUBUIS
Technical watchmaking comes in different flavours, which Roger Dubuis is only too happy to demonstrate
Although Roger Dubuis’s latest novelties belong to two wildly disparate universes, each reveals the brand’s penchant for edgy, technical watchmaking that melds form with function – while injecting its signature design codes.
For men, this year’s focus is the deepening partnership with Lamborghini – and especially its Squadra Corse motorsport operation. This is seen in the brand’s trio of new timepieces: the one-of-a-kind Excalibur One-off, the 88-piece Excalibur Huracán and the Excalibur Huracán Performante. All three timepieces feature the familiar skeletonised Excalibur case, but come with various appointments inspired by the Italian marque, such as pronounced use of carbon and rubber. The movement architectures also sport Lamborghini signatures, including the hexagon motif, while in a nod to the engine layout of Lamborghini supercars, the balance wheels are variously inclined.
For women, Roger Dubuis has unveiled the Excalibur Shooting Star, a continuation of the brand’s Astral Skeleton theme, where movement bridges are open‑worked into star‑ shaped motifs as an angular counterpoint to the sensual curves in more typical skeletonised movements. The Excalibur Shooting Star is relatively small at 36mm, but it nonetheless has a skeletonised flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock, the result of two years’ development. Enamelling and gem‑setting help to complete the scene, with stars at every level of the dial and movement. Two versions of this pink‑gold watch are available, one with blue accents and the other with pink.