Liechtenstein
REENA HALLBERG heads to Liechtenstein to discover what the real “heart of the Alps” has to o ٺ er · and Ånds the tina prinKipalita p]nKhes well aJove its weight
Until I actually cross the border from Switzerland into Liechtenstein I know very little of this tiny, landlocked country. -xtending just 25km in length and 12km across at its widest point, the pocket-sized principality of Liechtenstein is a destination that rarely features on travel bucket lists, despite it being sandwiched between two of -urope’s most-visited countries, Switzerland to the west and Austria to the east. Yet this doubly landlocked country – Leichtenstein is wholly surrounded by other landlocked countries – o ٺ ers more than one can fathom, from a rich cultural heritage to Michelin-star fine-dining and postcard-perfect landscapes. Considered by some to be the true heart of the Alps, being the only country whose borders are located entirely within the mountains, it has for decades been a hideaway and playground of the ultra-rich.
On the economic front, the transformation of Liechtenstein from a poor agricultural country into a modern state with a diversified economy and a strong financial sector began after World War II, specifically when the reigning 8rince Franz Josef II relocated his residence from eastern Austria to >aduz Castle, close by the Swiss border.
The country’s highly diversified economy is built on political stability due primarily to its unique form of government as a constitutional hereditary monarchy based on democratic and parliamentary principles – and its direct access to both the -uropean Union and the -uropean -conomic Area.
The capital, Vaduz, is where many of Liechtenstein’s historical and cultural landmarks are located, including the Princely Collections, the world-renowned art collections displayed at the Kunstmuseum, the Landesmuseum and the Hilti Art Foundation. For a history and culture bu ٺ like myself it’s exciting to have this rare opportunity to view works from the collections. The anniversary of the founding of the principality
also means that some rare pieces, which are almost never displayed in public, are there to be witnessed.
The princes of Liechtenstein have been keen on art since early in their history. Over several centuries they built up their Princely Collections, which now comprise 1,700 paintings, including masterpieces that date from the early Renaissance through to the era of Austrian Romanticism, including paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder, Raphael, Rubens, and Rembrandt, among others. The collections also feature a significant selection of Italian bronzes, graphic art, pietra dura objects, enamel items, ivory pieces, ceremonial arms, porcelain, tapestries and furniture that once adorned the castles and palaces of the Princely House of Liechtenstein. Because of the family’s active purchasing policy, the Collections are still being selectively expanded today.
A lovely way to enjoy the sights and sounds of this well-preserved town is with a stroll through Mitteldorf, or Central Village, where charming ancient homes line narrow cobblestone streets all with a wonderful view of Vaduz Castle.
Regardless of where you end up going in Vaduz, you’re never far from the beautiful, 700-year-old medieval castle, which is perched on a hill. Acquired in 1712 by the Princes of Liechtenstein, it’s served as the official residence of the 8rincely Family since 1938. While the castle is not open to visitors, one can take a leisurely stroll right up to its gates and soak in the view of the capital and the Rhine Valley.
Despite being the world’s sixth smallest country, the principality is home to almost 100 winegrowers. The temperate climate and excellent soil conditions make it an ideal place for viticulture, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes in particular. On the outskirts of Vaduz lies the Hofkellerei, the 8rincely Wine Cellars situated on an estate that sprawls across 4 hectares. After a picturesque walk along the wine trail, my companions and I indulge in tasting sessions with outstanding, awardwinning reserve white wines and premium Pinots, and Liechtenstein’s very own variety of the sparkling wine Lisecco.
The best way to wind down after a day of exploring is to head to one of the city’s many fine-dining restaurants. 8erched just a little above the Princely vineyards is the stunning wood-lined, ivy-covered, one-Michelin-star Restaurant Torkel. Set in a building that was once a wine press and dates back to the middle ages – we see remnants of its past in its decor – the cosy restaurant came into being in the ’60s. Helmed by chef Ivo Berger, a member of the second generation of the Berger family who run the place, the Torkel is a culinary institution renowned for its seasonal, local produce that showcases regional specialities such as roasted Swiss veal fillet with oxtail jus and fish in Riesling sauce. The well-stocked cellar, containing more than 500 wines, ensures diners will find the right bottle to go with their meal. I highly recommend finding a seat on the terrace conservatory to take in the dramatic views of the Alps.
For our second evening, we head to Marue, Liechtenstein’s second
one-Michelin-star restaurant. Set within the Relais & Chateaulisted Park-Hotel Sonnenhof, this refined establishment is known as the eagle’s nest for its bird’s eye view of the valley. Here, one can savour Swiss delicacies such as quail with butter potatoes and apple-onion chutney or a herby tarragon risotto topped with Riesling jus.
One of the best ways to experience the country at its fullest is to head out on its numerous walking and hiking trails, which take you through green pastures, pristine peaks and past the meandering River Rhine. If you’re fit and have a head for heights, I recommend walking the Liechtenstein Trail, which was gazetted earlier this year to celebrate the country’s 300th anniversary. The 75km trail traverses all 11 municipalities of the country, connecting some of its most beautiful and interesting sights. And your perfect guide for this trail is LIstory (Liechtenstein history), an app that uses augmented reality to present more than 100 historic sights encountered along the route in a fun and interactive manner.
If you’re looking for company on your trek through the snow-covered wilderness, I recommend bringing along a llama or an alpaca (yes, you read that right). You can get one at The Lama and Alpakahof of Triesenberg, which o ٺ ers an unusual, exciting way to experience the thrill of the Alps with a furry friend in tow. Take a calming trek through the forest with your new chum, and afterwards unwind with a delicious outdoor barbecue or cheese fondue session – or better yet, stay overnight in a teepee for a truly bizarre Alpine experience.
But Liechtenstein is known not only for its postcard-perfect vistas, but also as a hotspot for winter sports. Malbun, situated on the eastern front of the Triesenberg municipality, is a small ski-resort centre that o ٺ ers a 23km network of pistes that suit all abilities, as well as snowboarding, cross-country skiing, mountain biking and even activities for children taking their first tentative steps on the slopes. There’s an unforgettable show put on by the /alina Falconry Centre during which eagles, falcons, hawks and eagle owls spiral and plunge majestically over the awestruck crowd. The village, nestled in a valley at 1,600 metres elevation, is verdant during my visit, but despite arriving two months before ski season I’m able to find plenty to amuse myself in this charming, family-friendly community.
If you want company on your trek, I recommend bringing along a llama or an alpaca (yes, you read that right)