THE WEAR­ABLE LIGHT­NESS OF BE­ING

VAGUE, VAPOROUS AND VOGUE BY TURNS IS EMPORIO ARMANI SPRING/SUM­MER 2020

Prestige Hong Kong - - SELECT -

IF EMPORIO ARMANI’S spring/sum­mer 2020 col­lec­tion ap­pears to float, wisp and breeze down the run­way, then it plays both vague and vogue si­mul­ta­ne­ously, liv­ing up to its fleet­ing, in­vis­i­ble billing, ti­tled as it is, Air. The mae­stro Giorgio Armani him­self de­scribes the soft colours and sur­faces as be­ing redo­lent of an at­ti­tude that is “ef­fort­lessly feminine”.

A sense of soft­ness, light­ness and even “the syn­tax of floaty, im­ma­te­rial style” per­vades in a se­ries of soft washed-out colours such as aqua­ma­rine, grey, sky blue, “greige”, pow­der pink and pis­ta­chio, which never threat­ens to bold­face their in­tent. And oc­ca­sional ex­cla­ma­tion marks of acid green and corn­flower blue un­furl in over­laps of shaded or pin­striped silk with a pa­per ef­fect, and ul­tra-lightweigh­t crushed vel­vet.

At times this col­lec­tion feels as sub­tle as breath. An airy light­ness dom­i­nates the shapes, which ap­pear to sweep over the body, in fluid duster coats, small jack­ets, and wrap­around de­con­structed blazers (an Armani show is never with­out them), co-or­di­nated with straight-leg or gath­ered-at-the-hem trousers. Dresses in vaporous tulle, which in the evening can be lit up by small crys­tals, se­quins and metal strands, turn sil­very, al­most lu­nar.

Ac­ces­sories ac­cen­tu­ated the ur­ban tone of the whole, tak­ing dis­creet style into a real-life con­text; high-top sneak­ers in faded denim and flats with luxe ap­pliqués like crys­tals laid over naked skin. And even the tiny plex­i­glas bags were worn like jew­els. Har­mo­nious and clean, the airy con­fec­tion be­speaks the wear­able light­ness of be­ing.

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