The grace and pre­ci­sion of pearl fine jew­els

Solitaire (Singapore) - - Content - By Jen­nifer Hen­ri­cus

Take a per­fect round black Tahi­tian or white South Sea pearl, clev­erly bal­ance it on the lower curve of a finely-crafted, open-hoop gold ear­ring, fin­ish it off with an en­gi­neered pre­ci­sion, and you have a show stop­per. The ap­peal of this sim­ple jewel lies in the unique creativ­ity of its de­signer, Mizuki Goltz.

The ear­rings are from Goltz’s lat­est col­lec­tion, Beauty of the Sea, from her name­sake brand – Mizuki. Each piece in the col­lec­tion presents three­d­i­men­sional qual­i­ties that be­lie their con­tem­po­rary sim­plic­ity. “Re­fine­ment” is the word Goltz uses to de­scribe her de­sign phi­los­o­phy. In her quest for re­fine­ment, she ma­nip­u­lates the space within the jewel so that the open­ness and “ab­sence of ma­te­rial” evoke a fash­ion­able sen­si­bil­ity that is fleet­ing yet cap­ti­vat­ing. This abil­ity can be traced back to her Ja­panese ori­gins and her sub­se­quent train­ing as a sculp­tor at New York City’s pres­ti­gious School of Vis­ual Arts.

Goltz’s back­ground in sculp­ture gave her in­sight into the phys­i­cal­ity of a piece of work and its in­ter­ac­tion with space. “I love the chal­lenge of sim­plic­ity as it re­quires care­ful ar­tic­u­la­tion to cre­ate drama with sub­tlety,” she says. It is clear that the aes­thet­ics of her de­signs are rooted in her mixed up­bring­ing. Goltz was born in Tokyo, where she spent her child­hood. She moved with her fam­ily to New York when she was 10, and a few years ago she moved with her hus­band to South­ern Cal­i­for­nia. “Col­lid­ing and fil­ter­ing th­ese worlds have al­ways de­fined my ap­proach. I love New York’s con­stant change and sense of power, and Tokyo’s sense of in­ti­macy in its en­ergy, re­fine­ment, and nat­u­ral­ism. While South­ern Cal­i­for­nia in­stils bal­ance and is a place for me to bring my cre­ative vi­sions to­gether.”

For Goltz, there was no defin­ing mo­ment when she fell in love with jew­ellery. “I al­ways knew I wanted to work with pre­cious met­als, di­a­monds,

THIS PAGE Model wear­ing an ear­ring from the Sea of Beauty col­lec­tion

OP­PO­SITE PAGE Three-pearl ring from the Fluid Gold col­lec­tion

Mizuki Goltz has cre­ated fash­ion-for­ward col­lec­tions that have caught the fancy of celebri­ties, such as An­gelina Jolie and Oprah Win­frey

and pearls to cre­ate mod­ern jew­ellery,” she shares. Since she was a child, she nur­tured a jew­ellery-mak­ing hobby, cre­at­ing wire-wrapped pearl pieces that were pop­u­lar with her friends and fam­ily. Pearls are her pas­sion, a love af­fair that be­gan when she was still a child in Tokyo. Her de­sign strug­gle has been to cre­ate mod­ern sim­plic­ity sans the cold­ness of min­i­mal­ism. Baroque pearls be­came the gems that helped in­stil “sen­sual warmth” into her de­signs.

Goltz launched her first col­lec­tion in 1996, and in her 20-year de­sign jour­ney she has cre­ated fash­ion-for­ward col­lec­tions that have caught the fancy of jew­ellery lovers all over the world, in­clud­ing celebri­ties such as An­gelina Jolie and Oprah Win­frey.

In her lat­est col­lec­tion, Fluid Gold, she has in­tro­duced shiny gold el­e­ments that cap the flu­id­ity of baroque pearls, cre­at­ing the il­lu­sion of the pearls pour­ing them­selves into tiny gold ob­jects. “For me, in jew­ellery, the pearls are as close to what it means to be a woman. They are not about the cut of the stone, the set­ting or the pol­ish­ing of me­tal. The pearl is about see­ing the beauty in front of you and em­brac­ing its raw­ness.”

Her de­sign process be­gins with this en­gage­ment with the pearl, either by sense, de­sire, or touch. “There are days I spend hours just look­ing and touch­ing the pearls, an abstract ap­proach but a very nec­es­sary one for me.” Wear­a­bil­ity is another cru­cial fac­tor for her, and she is con­stantly decked in wax mod­els to test their fit and com­fort. Al­though gold is her pre­ferred me­tal, she loves to use un­con­ven­tional ma­te­ri­als. Leather is a strong favourite: “I’ve al­ways in­cor­po­rated a leather el­e­ment to give that spice of some­thing dif­fer­ent, fun, and sexy. And it beau­ti­fully com­ple­ments the nat­u­ral­ism of the pearl.”

“The pearls are as close to what it means to be a woman”

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