Baroque Rome Lives On
As the world closes its borders, Bulgari turns its attention to a muse just a stone’s throw away from its workshops.
Rome wasn’t built in a day. And with that comes a treasure trove of architecture and culture that inspires tourists and residents alike.
It couldn’t be more relatable for Bulgari. For over 130 years, Bulgari has called Rome its eternal muse. Many Roman landmarks have surfaced in well-loved Bulgari creations: From the Colosseum from which the B.zero1 collection takes inspiration to the fan-like motifs of Diva’s Dream recalling the ancient tiles of the Caracalla Baths.
Especially so with its high jewellery collection, Bulgari invokes Rome with large cabochons and unusual cuts in grandiose fashion – what the brand dubs the unabashed ‘mai troppo’ (or never too much in Italian) spirit of the city.
This year, that unique relationship between brand and city is more relevant than ever. In the middle of a pandemic and the world closing its borders, what could be more appropriate than revisiting the sights of home?
With Bulgari’s high jewellery collection, longtime creative director Lucia Silvestri o ers an insightful look at Rome and a much-needed spark of wanderlust and joy in these homebound times with the latest high jewellery collection. Called Barocko, Bulgari takes cues from the grand Baroque architecture and art found all over the Eternal City.
A stylistic period born from Rome in the 16th century, Italian Baroque surfaced as resplendent creations blurring the lines between architecture and sculpture with highly-elaborate details. Some of the masterpieces of the era live on as icons of Rome, such as Lorenzo Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers and bronze angels of Castel Sant’angelo.
As its name suggests, Barocko draws on these aesthetics with a contemporary edge. Split into three capsules; the high jewellery collection explores a massive scope of designs touching on key features of Italian Baroque: Meraviglia (Wonder), Luce (Light), and Colore (Colour). It’s also an opportune moment for Silvestri to drop in rare precious gems gathered from around the world for this collection.
Meraviglia is dedicated to the skilful craftsmanship of marble sculptures by Baroque artists. Drawing on the life-like carving of textiles and drapery on marble, creations in this selection see soft curves and undulations.
The Ruby Drapery ring and its accompanying earrings best capture these fine details in white gold, with custom-cut rubies and diamonds reminiscent of folded silk. Diamond and sapphire-studded lacework and ribbons in platinum make an appearance in the Sapphire Lace necklace. Fans of emeralds will find impressive works in the collection, such as the Cupola and the Emerald Star, with sugarloaf cabochons and beads weaved into architectural motifs and seductive swirls.
Over with Luce, rare diamonds and luminous gems are the main highlights.
A vibrant yellow kite-shaped diamond makes a stunning centrepiece in the opulent Raggio di Luce ring, flanked by rays of yellow and white diamonds reminiscent of those radiating from Bernini’s Ecstasy of
Saint Teresa sculpture in Cornaro Chapel. In a more adventurous piece, the Peacock necklace, scintillating exotic feathers are immortalised in an array of gems – from tanzanites and aquamarines to chrysoprases and emeralds.
The Wings of Rome necklace best captures the historic city’s beauty, inspired by the famous statue of Archangel Michael gazing from the top of Castel Sant’angelo. Brilliant diamonds in marquise, round and drop cuts set in sculptural details on platinum come together to a stunningly, illuminating result.
Barocko doesn’t forget to have a bit of fun with its pieces too. Colore sees an explosion of bold combinations from Bulgari’s palette of gems ranging from fancy-coloured sapphires to rubellites. The latter makes a stunning appearance – as a 70-carat drop-shaped gem – in Lady Rubellite, a Baroque-style sautoir of pearls, diamonds, and amethyst beads. The Lady Aarabesuque collar, and earrings, tie in dramatic scrolls and curls iconic to the stylistic period with a chic selection of pink and violet sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, and diamonds. Cabochon Exuberance pushes
the theme further, with an extravagant string of tanzanite, rubellites emerald, and aquamarine cabochons.
The collection continues to fascinate with versatile creations. The Precious Feathers necklace o ers variations, such as a diamond-studded choker and a detachable drop-shaped emerald pendant for a more subdued look. There’s also the Rosso Caravaggio, a stunning homage to the Italian old master. The necklace is one of the most complicated pieces in the collection and can be taken apart as two di erent necklaces, one of which bears a massive 10-carat ruby.
While the pandemic has made it di!cult to celebrate the release of Barocko, those who are keen to explore the piece will still find plenty of avenues to explore the collection.
Italy-based artist Ignasi, commissioned by Bulgari, brings the jewellery to life in a reimagination of Plato’s famous cave allegory. The scrolling poetic work sees a marble-sculpted woman traverse through gem mines, museums and fields to uncover Barocko’s masterpieces. And there’s also an invite-only app to check out, where clients can discover pieces and interact with them either by trying them on virtually or playing with di erent combinations.
It will be a long while before Rome is within reach for most. For now, Bulgari’s Barocko could not have been a more well-timed occasion to remind the world of the city’s incredible sights and wonderful spirit.