In Focus: Feng J
Here’s what’s new in the exciting world of high jewellery designer, Feng J
Here’s what’s new in the exciting world of high jewellery designer, Feng J
High jewellery designer Feng J recently participated in an exciting private selling initiative organised by auction house Phillips. Titled ‘Woman to Woman: A Powerful Voice in Jewellery,’ it was the first such exhibition in a new collaborative series between Phillips Flawless and Vivarium by Vivienne Becker.
The curated designs included exceptional pieces by iconic 20th and 21st century female jewellery designers. “It was a great honour to be part of the event and on par with the most important female jewellers – past and present. To have my creations showcased alongside such icons as Suzanne Belperron, René Boivin, Paloma Picasso, and Marina Bulgari was an incredibly exciting opportunity,” says Feng, who draws on French Impressionism to design one-of-akind jewels informed by her signature “painterly” style.
Her jewels, crafted in Paris, are encrusted with double rose-cut precious gems. “It is a special cut that makes the stone with a mere 1-1.2mm width; the facets reflect light in a very extremely elegant and beautiful way,” she says. A two-year research and development with precious metal led the designer to develop her distinct technique – floating setting. “I set out to experiment with ways on how I could maximise the internal reflection and shine of the gems. I decided to use gold in a rather minimal way and use electroplating to be able to play with a range of colours. In the floating setting method, I make very tiny prongs to independently set each stone. I then merge them together as if they were pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. You need to be able to predict and outline the various elements in your mind and see how it comes together during the creative process. Sometimes, you might need to start from scratch, especially if you don’t achieve the result you were hoping for. The process of experiment is very challenging yet highly satisfying,” explains Feng.
She has just unveiled her latest body
of works, Garden of Impressionism, at the JINGART art fair. These new high jewellery pieces are inspired by art and nature, says Feng, who has been working on the designs for nearly a year now. “I always want my creation to be light weight. It needs maximumly to let light to go through.” Besides, diamonds, she has used sapphires, purple spinels, tsavorites, chrysoberyls, aquamarines, and tanzanites to compose brooches and earrings. “Spinels, tsavorites, chrysoberyls are so colourful yet subtle; they remind me of water colour on a palette. They imbue my works with a distinct element of art. I love working with semi-precious stones; they have charming characteristics quite different from the precious gems like rubies, emeralds and sapphires,” adds Feng.
Jewellery Memory
“It was when I was very young and happened to watch a documentary movie and saw a jewellery created by the great artist Pablo Picasso. I realised that jewellery was another form of art and it utterly fascinated me.”
Creative Endeavour
“As a student back in the day, I studied furniture and product design at C.A.A (China Academy of Art). I thought I wanted to be a furniture maker. But I also loved sports cars and wanted to study in the US and nurtured dreams of being a sports car designer. I loved the idea of making pieces with dimension, so I applied to the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, California. I was really looking forward to learning sports car design. However, I was rejected owing to visa issues. I guess when God closes a door, he opens a window. Jewellery making is also another form of creative design, so I found my calling. Then, I did my Master’s in Jewelry Design from the University of the Arts, London, and learnt European jewellery craftsmanship at the Haute École de Joaillerie in Paris. I also studied gemology at GIA.”
Art
“Art inspires me in my work. French painter and founder of impressionist painting Oscar-claude Monet is one such artist whose works endlessly inspire me. I am fascinated by how well he employed light, shadow, and hue. American modernist artist Georgia O’keeffe is another important figure in the art world; I love how her works exude her powerful personal style.”
Current Project
“We recently moved to a new creative home: A new studio in the old French concession in Shanghai and I am devoting much of my time to finishing up the décor and adding artworks to my jewellery atelier.”