Crown Jewels

Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 in diamonds

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 in diamonds

“Even if your watch is full of diamonds, the hour is still 60 minutes,” says American author Robert Fulgham.

He is not wrong. When diamonds were introduced to watches in the early 1900s, it was a sign emblematic of wealth. The status was frank, and in fact the meaning doesn’t deviate any more than it does today. But your typical watch purveyor is now more educated rather than curious, and to own an extra shiny piece comes with a price paid for appreciation.

However, there’s no denying that setting one’s eyes on a full gold diamond-studded timepiece still takes your breath away – which is the case for the new Oyster Perpetual Day-date 36 versions that were introduced in this year’s new novelties.

While a typical watch assembly goes through a good number of hands to put it all together, it takes two expert jewellers for the finishing touches – a gemologist for selecting the precious stones and a gem-setter to place them. This process demands precision that stems from generations of training, farmed through familiarization and practice.

In the new Day-date 36, 450 diamonds are set on the dial alone, leaving just enough room for the day and date apertures, the watch’s name on gold appliques, and bold Roman numerals set in colorful enamel. Three new colors emerge in this collection, ranging from orange, turquoise, and burgundy. The monochromatic hues are anything but dull, with each model – in 18 ct yellow gold, white gold, and Everose gold respectively – fashioned in complementing alligator leather straps in accordance with the dial’s enamel colors.

The watch runs on the in-house Superlative Chronometer certified Perpetual calibre 3255, with two simple hands in 18 ct gold to gesture the hours and minutes. Reading the time on this one is fuss-free, but to embody this is certainly another.

Maybe Fulgham got it wrong. If your watch is full of diamonds, who’s looking at the time?