AS YOU LIKE IT
The tradition of providing white glove services is alive and well among creators high-jewellery who can anticipate even the intimate requirements of a client
Customised and bespoke jewellery represents the high exclusivity. Creations are guaranteed to be unique and represent a beautiful fusion of the jeweller’s expertise and the client’s individuality and preferences. Whether it’s creating original designs from scratch or modifying an heirloom jewel, the skills of patience, creativity and craftsmanship are required in the process that can take several weeks, months or years.
The principle of keeping bespoke pieces secret and exclusively seen by the client is particularly pertinent for the iconic French maison Boucheron. “It adds a personalised and intimate dimension to the jewellery-making process,” explains Claire Choisne, creative director at Boucheron. “We are working on numerous bespoke pieces now, and it’s exciting because we don’t follow the same creative processes as we do for the main collections.”
Balancing client requests and maintaining the brand’s design philosophy is a delicate process. It becomes a shared journey of creativity – an enriching and deeply meaningful experience for both parties.
Taiwanese musician and jewellery designer Anna Hu likens her role as similar to that of “a conductor, who orchestrates the client’s ideas into a complete symphony. Clients come to me and share an initial idea, then I add my suggestions in terms of creative style and try to present their concept perfectly. I enjoy learning about their love stories, family legacy, and important milestones in life which helps me understand where their ideas come from.”
Fourth-generation diamantaire Harakh Mehta, who founded his eponymous brand HARAKH, always finds a way to incorporate his brand DNA into a bespoke piece.
“It may be hidden on the inside, but this may include combining different diamond cuts to our signature tears of joy motif. Clients love it when we add our little touches.” Mehta explains “We ask a litany of questions which we internally developed to help us clarify their vision. We also ask clients to show us images of pieces they like from their family or our Instagram. After the first discussion, we send an initial line sketch to get their feedback.”
Emotion plays a significant role in bespoke jewellery. When crafting custom or bespoke pieces, skilled jewellers are able to translate and distill emotion into a tangible, wearable form that holds deep meaning for the individual client.
Mehta reveals that one of his clients wanted an emerald-cut diamond solitaire for an engagement ring. After a series of questions, some sketches and video calls, she ended up with a beautiful two-stone ring featuring a round and a cushion-cut diamond. This was based on her own inspiration and idea to include a diamond for both herself and her fiancé. Since she originally wanted an emerald cut, we found a way to incorporate that by putting one inside the shank.”