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DIVE INTO THE DEEP END SHAM SHUI PO

深藏不露深水 埗

- TEXT BY CATHARINA CHEUNG

Sham Shui Po is situated in the northweste­rn part of the Kowloon peninsula. As one of Hong Kong's earliest developed areas, it was once a commercial, industrial and transporta­tion hub; many factories and warehouses still remain. A predominan­tly poor area where urban decay is a serious issue, it nonetheles­s is one of Hong Kong's densest and most vibrant neighbourh­oods, teeming with life and local flavour.

深水 位於九龍半島的西北部,是香港最早發展的區域­之一,曾經是商貿、工業和交通樞紐,現在該區還有不少工廠­及倉庫。深水 最大的問題是老化,居住在該區的人收入偏­低,不過,亦是香港其中一個人口­密度最高、最活躍的社區之一,每天都十分熱鬧,到處都是地道美食。

F&B 餐飲選擇

Being an old neighbourh­ood, Sham Shui Po has a vast array of traditiona­l local foods to savour. Hop Yik Tai Cheung Fun specialise­s in rice rolls smothered in soy, sesame and hoisin sauces; Kung Wo Beancurd Factory makes the smoothest tofu pudding you will ever taste; and Wai Kee Noodle Café has such famed pig liver and beef noodles that they've got three stores next to each other. Unless you've been living under a rock, you may already have heard of Tim Ho Wan Dim Sum Specialist­s, the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world.

If you're in the area around tea time, be sure to visit the Garden Company building. It is the city's first bakery and confection­ery maker, and the café on the ground floor is open to the public, where a combo meal of a pastry and drink will set you back by a mere HK$25. Alternativ­ely, head to Sun Hang Yuen for egg and corned beef sandwiches and char siu pineapple buns, or to Block 18 Doggie's Noodle for glutinous rice noodles in a rich broth.

For non-chinese cuisine, check out Burgerman for Asian-inspired burgers, Kakurega Ramen Factory for amazing handmade tsukemen limited to 100 bowls a day, or Semua Semua for authentic Malaysian dishes where the nasi lemak and otak otak are apparently must-tries.

深水 是老區,可找到許多傳統美食。合益泰小食供應的腸粉­香滑無比,澆上醬油及芝麻,美味可口;公和荳品廠的豆腐花香­滑可口;維記咖啡粉麵一條街上­共有三家店,其豬潤麵遠近馳名。除非你不問世事,否則一定聽過區內的添­好運點心專門店,那是全球最便宜的米芝­蓮食肆。

下午茶時間,記緊要到訪嘉頓大廈,嘉頓是城中首家烘焙及­糖果製造商,地面的咖啡館開放給公­眾人士,糕點與飲品套餐只售2­5元;另外,你可以在新香園吃著名­的蛋牛三文治和菠蘿叉­燒包,又或到十八座狗仔粉品­嚐濃湯狗仔粉。

不想吃中餐?可到Burgerma­n點選富亞洲特色的漢­堡飽;或到隱家拉麵工場吃一­碗手工沾麵,每天限量供應100碗;又或到蘇媽.蘇媽品嚐正宗的馬來西­亞美食,一定要試他們出品的椰­漿飯和烏打。

Shopping 購物

Sham Shui Po is practicall­y synonymous with fabrics; streets of wholesaler­s hawk textiles in every shade, pattern and texture imaginable. Head to Yen Chow Street or Shek Kip Mei Street and see if you can't be inspired to break out the old sewing machine. Crafting materials are also in abundance near Ki Lung, Nam Cheong, and Yu Chau Streets, should you need buttons, embellishm­ents, glue guns, or even semi-precious stones. Tao Yuan Fashion Beads stocks a dizzying array of beads that you can scoop into your own little baskets, while fashion lovers should check out Cheung Sha Wan Road. Some shops will allow retail purchases over weekends, which means quality clothes at affordable prices.

Electronic­s are another reason to visit Sham Shui Po. The Golden Shopping Centre was once infamous for counterfei­t software but is now considered one of Hong Kong's cheapest locations for computer-related purchases. The two-floored mall is extremely narrow, with the upper floor specialisi­ng in gaming systems and software, and the lower level for computer-oriented hardware. There is even a Bitcoin ATM in the centre.

In need of toys, gift items or festive decoration­s? Fuk Wing Street is your answer. Pop into Alri Star Leather Factory for leatherwor­king tools and workshops. Lastly head to the famous Apliu Street, lined with stalls bursting with used electronic­s such as phone and camera accessorie­s. It's always worth a rummage around to see what little treasures you can salvage, but don't rush to buy—always haggle fiercely.

提起到深水 購物,不少人立即想到各式各­樣的布料,街上的布料批發店成行­成市,不同色澤、圖案的布料一應俱全。走在欽州街或石硤尾街,或許可從一些古老縫紉­機中得到創作靈感;基隆街、南昌街和汝州街則有許­多出售衣物配飾如鈕扣、襟章、膠槍或半寶石等製衣材­料和用具。濤源愛珠飾品供應一系­列令人目眩的珠飾,可以一杓杓地放進購物­籃。時裝愛好者定要走訪長­沙灣道,沿道有不少時裝批發店,有些店也會在週末轉為­零售店,你可以相宜的價錢買到­優質的服裝。

此外,不少到深水 的人主要是來購買電子­產品,黃金商場曾以出售翻版­軟件而惡名昭彰,但現在已成為香港購買­價廉物美電腦產品的熱­點之一,名副其實的電腦天堂。商場共有兩層,通道十分狹窄,而上層主要出售遊戲軟­件,下層是各式電腦硬件,中心還設有一個比特幣­的自動提款機,由於商場十分出名,但間隔又窄,所以經常人頭湧湧。

需要買些玩具、禮物或節慶裝飾嗎?福榮街有齊你所需。如果需要購買皮革,不妨前往阿里皮藝,可買到皮革加工工具,亦可參與商店提供的工­作坊。最後,可到主要出售二手手機­及相機配件的鴨寮街,或許可在那裡尋找到你­需要的配件,不過不要太心急,因議價的空間還十分大­呢!

History & Culture 歷史與文化

Learn a little about Hong Kong's ancient history; Sham Shui Po is home to Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb, unwittingl­y discovered during constructi­on work in 1955. Believed to be a relic from the Eastern Han dynasty circa 25-220AD, the tomb can be viewed along with an exhibition of artefacts excavated from the site.

It is no big surprise that the Savannah College of Art and Design is located in the crafts mecca of the 852. SCAD offers campus tours where visitors can view the artwork decorating its hallways. Another artistic venue is the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, a multidisci­plinary arts village that used to be a factory building. The charity-run space provides studios to the local arts community; definitely a cause worth supporting.

Pop over to Man Fung Building to bless your Instagram feeds. Madrid-based street artist Okuda San Miguel has covered the entire façade in a multicolou­red mural named Rainbow Thief. The patterns converge to form a geometric fox—you can't miss it. Visit Sun Nga Shing Umbrella Store as well; this historic store is one of Hong Kong's last remaining umbrella repair shops, where you'll also find a collection of handcrafte­d umbrellas the owner has made over the years.

如果想知多一點有關香­港的遠古史,可以參觀李鄭屋漢墓,這個位於深水 的古墓於1955年政­府大興土木時被發現,相信是一座屬於東漢時­期(25-220年)的陵墓,遊客可透過玻璃門窺探­古墓的內部建築,並可在展區參觀出土的­文物。

區內還有不少與手工藝­有關的機構。薩凡納藝術設計學院位­於歷史建築北九龍裁判­法院內,參觀者可參加導賞團,欣賞放在走廊作裝飾的­藝術品。此外,區內的賽馬會創意藝術­中心是一所多元藝術村,前身是一所工廠大廈,由非牟利機構營運,為本地藝術團體提供場­地作工作坊,十分值得支持。

如果想找拍照點,可到萬風大廈,大廈外牆的塗鴉由來自­馬德里的街頭藝術家O­kuda San Miguel創作,色彩繽紛,名為Rainbow Thief。七彩幾何圖案併成了一­幅狐狸圖,精彩萬分。不要忘記走訪新藝城傘­皇,這是香港碩果僅存的數­家雨傘修理店之一,你亦可看到多年來由店­主親手製作的雨傘系列。

 ??  ?? Kung Wo Beancurd Factory 公和荳品廠 Garden Family Assorted Biscuits 嘉頓家庭雜錦餅乾
Kung Wo Beancurd Factory 公和荳品廠 Garden Family Assorted Biscuits 嘉頓家庭雜錦餅乾
 ??  ?? 桂林街 Golden Shopping Centre 黃金商場 Kweilin Street
桂林街 Golden Shopping Centre 黃金商場 Kweilin Street
 ??  ?? Savannah College of Art and Design 薩凡納藝術設計學院 Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb 李鄭屋漢墓 Wikipedia user: Mk2010
Savannah College of Art and Design 薩凡納藝術設計學院 Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb 李鄭屋漢墓 Wikipedia user: Mk2010

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