DIVE INTO THE DEEP END SHAM SHUI PO
深藏不露深水 埗
Sham Shui Po is situated in the northwestern part of the Kowloon peninsula. As one of Hong Kong's earliest developed areas, it was once a commercial, industrial and transportation hub; many factories and warehouses still remain. A predominantly poor area where urban decay is a serious issue, it nonetheless is one of Hong Kong's densest and most vibrant neighbourhoods, teeming with life and local flavour.
深水 位於九龍半島的西北部,是香港最早發展的區域之一,曾經是商貿、工業和交通樞紐,現在該區還有不少工廠及倉庫。深水 最大的問題是老化,居住在該區的人收入偏低,不過,亦是香港其中一個人口密度最高、最活躍的社區之一,每天都十分熱鬧,到處都是地道美食。
F&B 餐飲選擇
Being an old neighbourhood, Sham Shui Po has a vast array of traditional local foods to savour. Hop Yik Tai Cheung Fun specialises in rice rolls smothered in soy, sesame and hoisin sauces; Kung Wo Beancurd Factory makes the smoothest tofu pudding you will ever taste; and Wai Kee Noodle Café has such famed pig liver and beef noodles that they've got three stores next to each other. Unless you've been living under a rock, you may already have heard of Tim Ho Wan Dim Sum Specialists, the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world.
If you're in the area around tea time, be sure to visit the Garden Company building. It is the city's first bakery and confectionery maker, and the café on the ground floor is open to the public, where a combo meal of a pastry and drink will set you back by a mere HK$25. Alternatively, head to Sun Hang Yuen for egg and corned beef sandwiches and char siu pineapple buns, or to Block 18 Doggie's Noodle for glutinous rice noodles in a rich broth.
For non-chinese cuisine, check out Burgerman for Asian-inspired burgers, Kakurega Ramen Factory for amazing handmade tsukemen limited to 100 bowls a day, or Semua Semua for authentic Malaysian dishes where the nasi lemak and otak otak are apparently must-tries.
深水 是老區,可找到許多傳統美食。合益泰小食供應的腸粉香滑無比,澆上醬油及芝麻,美味可口;公和荳品廠的豆腐花香滑可口;維記咖啡粉麵一條街上共有三家店,其豬潤麵遠近馳名。除非你不問世事,否則一定聽過區內的添好運點心專門店,那是全球最便宜的米芝蓮食肆。
下午茶時間,記緊要到訪嘉頓大廈,嘉頓是城中首家烘焙及糖果製造商,地面的咖啡館開放給公眾人士,糕點與飲品套餐只售25元;另外,你可以在新香園吃著名的蛋牛三文治和菠蘿叉燒包,又或到十八座狗仔粉品嚐濃湯狗仔粉。
不想吃中餐?可到Burgerman點選富亞洲特色的漢堡飽;或到隱家拉麵工場吃一碗手工沾麵,每天限量供應100碗;又或到蘇媽.蘇媽品嚐正宗的馬來西亞美食,一定要試他們出品的椰漿飯和烏打。
Shopping 購物
Sham Shui Po is practically synonymous with fabrics; streets of wholesalers hawk textiles in every shade, pattern and texture imaginable. Head to Yen Chow Street or Shek Kip Mei Street and see if you can't be inspired to break out the old sewing machine. Crafting materials are also in abundance near Ki Lung, Nam Cheong, and Yu Chau Streets, should you need buttons, embellishments, glue guns, or even semi-precious stones. Tao Yuan Fashion Beads stocks a dizzying array of beads that you can scoop into your own little baskets, while fashion lovers should check out Cheung Sha Wan Road. Some shops will allow retail purchases over weekends, which means quality clothes at affordable prices.
Electronics are another reason to visit Sham Shui Po. The Golden Shopping Centre was once infamous for counterfeit software but is now considered one of Hong Kong's cheapest locations for computer-related purchases. The two-floored mall is extremely narrow, with the upper floor specialising in gaming systems and software, and the lower level for computer-oriented hardware. There is even a Bitcoin ATM in the centre.
In need of toys, gift items or festive decorations? Fuk Wing Street is your answer. Pop into Alri Star Leather Factory for leatherworking tools and workshops. Lastly head to the famous Apliu Street, lined with stalls bursting with used electronics such as phone and camera accessories. It's always worth a rummage around to see what little treasures you can salvage, but don't rush to buy—always haggle fiercely.
提起到深水 購物,不少人立即想到各式各樣的布料,街上的布料批發店成行成市,不同色澤、圖案的布料一應俱全。走在欽州街或石硤尾街,或許可從一些古老縫紉機中得到創作靈感;基隆街、南昌街和汝州街則有許多出售衣物配飾如鈕扣、襟章、膠槍或半寶石等製衣材料和用具。濤源愛珠飾品供應一系列令人目眩的珠飾,可以一杓杓地放進購物籃。時裝愛好者定要走訪長沙灣道,沿道有不少時裝批發店,有些店也會在週末轉為零售店,你可以相宜的價錢買到優質的服裝。
此外,不少到深水 的人主要是來購買電子產品,黃金商場曾以出售翻版軟件而惡名昭彰,但現在已成為香港購買價廉物美電腦產品的熱點之一,名副其實的電腦天堂。商場共有兩層,通道十分狹窄,而上層主要出售遊戲軟件,下層是各式電腦硬件,中心還設有一個比特幣的自動提款機,由於商場十分出名,但間隔又窄,所以經常人頭湧湧。
需要買些玩具、禮物或節慶裝飾嗎?福榮街有齊你所需。如果需要購買皮革,不妨前往阿里皮藝,可買到皮革加工工具,亦可參與商店提供的工作坊。最後,可到主要出售二手手機及相機配件的鴨寮街,或許可在那裡尋找到你需要的配件,不過不要太心急,因議價的空間還十分大呢!
History & Culture 歷史與文化
Learn a little about Hong Kong's ancient history; Sham Shui Po is home to Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb, unwittingly discovered during construction work in 1955. Believed to be a relic from the Eastern Han dynasty circa 25-220AD, the tomb can be viewed along with an exhibition of artefacts excavated from the site.
It is no big surprise that the Savannah College of Art and Design is located in the crafts mecca of the 852. SCAD offers campus tours where visitors can view the artwork decorating its hallways. Another artistic venue is the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, a multidisciplinary arts village that used to be a factory building. The charity-run space provides studios to the local arts community; definitely a cause worth supporting.
Pop over to Man Fung Building to bless your Instagram feeds. Madrid-based street artist Okuda San Miguel has covered the entire façade in a multicoloured mural named Rainbow Thief. The patterns converge to form a geometric fox—you can't miss it. Visit Sun Nga Shing Umbrella Store as well; this historic store is one of Hong Kong's last remaining umbrella repair shops, where you'll also find a collection of handcrafted umbrellas the owner has made over the years.
如果想知多一點有關香港的遠古史,可以參觀李鄭屋漢墓,這個位於深水 的古墓於1955年政府大興土木時被發現,相信是一座屬於東漢時期(25-220年)的陵墓,遊客可透過玻璃門窺探古墓的內部建築,並可在展區參觀出土的文物。
區內還有不少與手工藝有關的機構。薩凡納藝術設計學院位於歷史建築北九龍裁判法院內,參觀者可參加導賞團,欣賞放在走廊作裝飾的藝術品。此外,區內的賽馬會創意藝術中心是一所多元藝術村,前身是一所工廠大廈,由非牟利機構營運,為本地藝術團體提供場地作工作坊,十分值得支持。
如果想找拍照點,可到萬風大廈,大廈外牆的塗鴉由來自馬德里的街頭藝術家Okuda San Miguel創作,色彩繽紛,名為Rainbow Thief。七彩幾何圖案併成了一幅狐狸圖,精彩萬分。不要忘記走訪新藝城傘皇,這是香港碩果僅存的數家雨傘修理店之一,你亦可看到多年來由店主親手製作的雨傘系列。