Remaining Organic: To Kwa Wan
吉光片羽：土瓜灣
To Kwa Wan is administratively part of the Kowloon City District and is located to the west of the old Kai Tak Airport. The area was developed for mass cheap housing and small-scale industries. After the shift in low-skilled labour industries to mainland China, garages moved in to take up these ground-level units.
To Kwa Wan's first buildings, built from the 1950s, were limited to eight storeys due to air traffic over the area. These old structures have been notorious for collapsing façades and indeed many are ripe to be torn down, but the tin shack-topped buildings undoubtedly lend a certain striking character.
土瓜灣基本上是九龍城區的一部份，位於啟德機場西面，區內有大量的廉租屋及小型工廠，自低技術的工種把生產線移至內地，原有的地方則變成多間車房。
土瓜灣的首批建築於1950年代建成，樓高只有8層，因為該區有空中交通管制。這些樓宇外表殘舊，好像快要倒塌，事實上，不少快要被拆卸，不過這些有鐵棚屋頂的大廈，已成為這區獨有的標記。
Facilities 設施
There used to be an island off the coast named Hoi Sham Island, which was famous for the Hoi Sham Rock and the Fishtail Rock, believed to be of good fortune. With land reclamation in the 60s, it was eventually connected to the mainland, and is now part of Hoi Sham Park. Both historic rocks have been preserved and are on display in the park. Apart from Hoi Sham Park, To Kwa Wan also has Ko Shan Road Park to its southwestern edge, and To Kwa Wan Recreation Ground, which is conveniently connected to the To Kwa Wan Sports Centre.
In terms of public transport, To Kwa Wan has a pier, the Kowloon City Ferry Pier, which serves regular services running to North Point. Right down the road is the Ma Tau Kok Public Pier, a nice spot to sit and watch the sea from. With the opening of the Sha Tin to Central Link, To Kwa Wan will soon get its own MTR station. No excuse to not visit!
昔日土瓜灣對出大海有個海心島，島上有海心石及魚尾石，據聞會為人帶來好運。60年代土瓜灣進行填海，小島與陸地相連，成為現在海心公園的一部份。除了海心公園，土瓜灣西南面還有高山道公園，而土瓜灣遊樂場則與土瓜灣體育館相連。
在公共交通方面，土瓜灣的九龍城碼頭，有定期渡輪往來北角，從碼頭直行是馬頭角公眾碼頭，是欣賞海景的好地方，沙中線快要通車，土瓜灣快要有港鐵站，沒藉口不來啦！
Attractions 景點
At the northern end of To Kwa Wan is a small neighbourhood known colloquially as '13 Streets'. Laid out in a grid pattern— rather unique among the winding tangled roads prevalent in Hong Kong—these streets are each named after an animal auspicious to Chinese culture, such as the dragon (Lung To Street), the crane (Hok Ling Street) and the swallow (Yin On Street).
Across the road from the low-rises of ‘13 Streets' lies a destination dedicated to the humbler cow: the Cattle Depot Artist Village. Constructed in 1908, the compound was an abattoir and quarantine base until 1999. This coincided with the closure of the Oil Street Arts Village in North Point, so renovation commenced and by 2001 artists had moved in. Cattle Depot has become a much more casual and organic alternative to large galleries and art fairs, or even the more commercialised PMQ. Visit Videotage in Unit 13 for experimental video art, On & On Theatre Workshop in Unit 7 for innovative theatre productions, and Unit 10 for the famous local artist the Frog King.
Nearby, the 59 Tattoo & Barber Shop is a hip business started by friends who were similarly interested in old motorcycles and the fashion and styles that came with it. Naturally, the cuts they specialise in are slick pompadours and quiffs with trendy undercuts. They also do tattoos and the whole shop is decked out in vintage knickknacks—very interesting to have a look at even if you're not looking for a haircut or a tattoo.
在土瓜灣北端有個小社區，名為13街，香港的路一向又彎又窄，但這些街道以方格形式排列，十分獨特，每條街均以中國的瑞獸命名，如龍圖道的龍、鶴齡街的鶴，以及燕安街的燕。
在13街一列唐樓的對面是牛棚藝術村，於1908年建成，一直是屠場及生畜檢疫站，至1999年關閉，剛好該年北角油街藝術村亦要關閉，於是屠場開始翻新，至2001年底，藝術家陸續遷入。現時牛房成為大型畫廊及藝術展，甚至是商業味道甚重的元創坊外另一個氣氛較輕鬆及有組織的藝術場所。不妨參觀13號的Videotage，欣賞其富實驗性質的錄像藝術；7號的前進進戲劇工作坊主打富創意舞台製作，而10號則是香港知名的藝術家蛙王。
附近是59 Tattoo & Barber Shop，由一班志同道的朋友合作開辦，他們喜歡電單車，以及與電單車有關的潮流服飾，可想而知他們擅長剪高捲式的undercut髮型，他們亦為顧客紋身，店內擺滿古董飾物，就算不需要剪頭髮，也可以來參觀。
F&B 美食
In line with To Kwa Wan's old school vibe, Wing Heung is a cha chaan teng which has been around since 1959 and retains much of the traditional charm of Hong Kong's past. It can only seat 15 diners at a time, but the sunny-side-up egg on toast and pineapple ice drink will be worth the wait. For another traditional culinary treat, head to Wun Kee Egg Rolls. This 50-year-old small family business is the only bakery to still grill egg rolls over an open fire, and only produce about 30 boxes per day.
Interestingly, Da Mo Restaurant is one of the few restaurants in the city which offer Xinjiang mutton. Pop into this dim establishment draped in tribal tapestries for an extensive menu on authentic Uyghur dishes. We're told the thigh of lamb cooked with honeydew melon, cashews and raisins is a must try.
Finally, our ultimate in hidden dining: Hung Fook Seafood Hot Pot. We're not joking when we say this place is hidden; new visitors need to venture into the long shady alleyway next to 86 Lok Shan Road and follow the smell of charcoal. The restaurant is really just a room plastered in beer posters and crammed with rickety tables, but this legendary eatery has been drawing in the crowds for over 40 years now. In fact, it is such an institution that a scene in the acclaimed crime film Infernal Affairs II was filmed here. Join in the rowdy dining atmosphere as their specialities, charcoal-fired barbecue and hotpots, really are perfect for winter.
跟土瓜灣的懷舊氣息一脈相承，永香冰室自1959年開業以來，仍然保留傳統老香港的風格，冰室每次只可招待15位客人，雖然要排隊等位，但能夠品嚐窩蛋多士及菠蘿冰，都是值得的。另一種在土瓜灣找到的傳統美味是垣記雞蛋卷，這門家族生意有50年歷史，店主仍然採用明火製作雞蛋卷，每天只做30盒。
在香港可以吃到新彊烤羊肉的餐廳寥寥可數，大漠是其中一家，以富民族色彩的掛氈作裝飾，提供多款維吾爾族菜式，必試的菜式包括蜜瓜、腰果及葡萄乾煮羊腿。
鮮為人知的餐廳還有十分隱蔽的鴻福海鮮四季火鍋，首次到訪的食客要先經過落山道86號又長又暗的小巷才能到達，但只要跟著炭火味直走，就可以找到，其實餐廳只是貼滿啤酒廣告的房間，擺滿搖搖晃晃的桌子，但這家食肆在該區屹立40年，每天都其門如市，餐廳的環境實在太經典，更成為香港電影無間道II的其中一個場景，不妨加入喧鬧的用餐氣氛，其特色菜、炭火燒烤和火鍋，真是冬日的最佳美食。