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Top Five Things to Do in Sai Wan

- TEXT BY CATHARINA CHEUNG

At the western end of Hong Kong Island, Sai Wan is following in Sheung Wan's footsteps, rapidly gentrifyin­g and fast becoming a foodie haven and hipster hangout. Since the Kennedy Town MTR station opened in 2014, the area is more accessible than ever. While many will argue the exact boundaries of Sai Wan, it approximat­ely includes the western part of Sai Ying Pun, Shek Tong Tsui and Kennedy Town, offering up various gems to uncover.

1 Appreciate art for free

Even though Hong Kong Art Month has come and gone, this city is still very much an artistic hub. Apart from world-class galleries, our city streets can also be seen as more accessible exhibition venues thanks to graffiti and street artists and ventures such as HK Walls. The area around Chung Chin Street and Ki Ling Lane in particular, known as ARTLANE, has a series of stunning murals, such as the two-storey tall girl watering plants, the rainbow steps and the face of an Asian woman rendered in geometric lines. Both walls along Shek Chan Lane depict colourful storefront­s inspired by streets in Vienna. More artworks crop up now and again, so it's always worth a poke into quiet alleys to see what you might discover.

2 Chow down on Asian delights

There is no lack of good Western restaurant­s in Sai Wan, but we'd like to highlight the slew of amazing Asian delicacies dotted around the area. Kaum at Potato Head is one of our favourite restaurant­s in Hong Kong, with delectable Balinese dishes and sustainabl­e cocktails in a chilled out venue; Krua Walaiphan was establishe­d by two former Chachawan employees who have clearly brought some culinary magic over to their top-notch casual Thai food joint; and Café Malacca, which has twice been named a Bib Gourmand restaurant in the Michelin Guides, serves lip-smackingly good sambal and nasi lemak. If you see long queues on Connaught Road, you've likely stumbled upon Kwan Kee, a long-standing claypot rice specialist that many claim is the best in Hong Kong. Alternativ­ely, head to Aziza for authentic Egyptian food where even the couscous is homemade, or to Mama Malouf, specialisi­ng in Lebanese home cooking. Round up the feasting at Yuen Kee Dessert, a no-frills sweet soup store establishe­d more than 160 years ago; we love the sweet almond soup. Foodies don't ever need to leave Sai Wan.

3 It's tipple time

Watering holes are also aplenty around the area, so much so you might have difficulty choosing a place for happy hour. Brut! sources their wine from small wineries around the world; pair these with their tapas-style sharing plates made from seasonal ingredient­s. Ping Pong 129 probably needs no introducti­on but for the yet uninitiate­d, this speakeasy is the place to go for a good G&T. Walk through a red door bearing only the sign of a ping pong hall to find yourself in a high-ceilinged cavernous space that oozes retro cool. Little Creatures has an extensive craft beer menu and their house brews change regularly; go for the tasting samplers which you can soak up with their breakfast foods. Our favourite yet is The Wilshire, with its floor-to-ceiling bottle décor, plush interiors and short but solid menu of fun, classic cocktails done incredibly well.

4 Get lost among interestin­g shops

Sai Wan has so many interestin­g stores and cafés to explore. Hit up Artisan Garden Café, which welcomes acoustic singer-songwriter­s to perform, for a mean breakfast (the ‘Buttermilk Fried Chicken Waffles' is a must try), or the similarly named Artisan Room where there's a lovely outdoor terrace to soak up some sun. Ethos has good Viennese coffee and an adjoining concept store with minimalist apparel and home products; Slowood is a zero-waste store for all your sustainabl­e lifestyle needs. Books and Co is a quaint little place stocking both new and second-hand tomes, where bookworms are encouraged to relax with a coffee and escape reality for a while. Lastly, check out board game café Wheat and Wood and snuggle down into a beanbag for a game of Catan—hours gone easily.

5 Do it for the ‘gram

There are so many spots in Sai Wan worth commemorat­ing in photos, but perhaps none so famous as Instagram Pier, or more officially the Sai Wan Shipping Dock. Discovered by photo buffs looking for the best vantage points, this fully functionin­g dock has become a hub of activity for joggers, dog walkers and people taking wedding photos. The harbourfro­nt area offers a fantastic view of the sea and Kowloon; visit during golden hour when the incredible light should make up for having to jostle with photograph­ers. Stick around and you can also see the nightly fireworks from Disneyland! A similar location is the Sai Wan Swimming Shed; this (slightly treacherou­slooking) jetty is the only swimming shed still open to the public and is the perfect place to catch the sunset. You'll easily forget you're in the middle of the city.

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